Tips for Slab Climbing from Climbing Magazine

Tech Tip - Technique - HEELS OF STEEL BY FITZ CAHALL

http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tech_tip_-_technique_-_heels_of_steel/
6 keys to master-class slab climbing CLIMBERS

TYPICALLY FALL INTO TWO CAMPS when it comes to slabs. Some gag at the connotation of meat-grating, nipple-raking falls. But others say friction climbing is our most elegant discipline, a communion of mental grit and technical grace that rewards brains and finesse, not mindless brawn. “I love, love, love slab climbing,” says Beth Rodden, whose slab sends include Yosemite’s Lurking Fear (VI 5.13c; FFA with Tommy Caldwell) and Squamish’s Grand Wall (IV 5.13). “Technical climbing is so engaging. You have to fi gure out ways to stand on your feet and move your body with more than just pure strength . . . maybe it’s also because my arms are so twiggy.” Watching a skilled slab climber waltz up holdless granite is like watching a magic trick — you know a simple method unlocks what should be impossible, but it’s still daunting to dissect how this happens. These six tips, gleaned from the world’s best, will have you calmly padding upward. But first, put on a shirt — your nipples will thank you.

“Butt out. Heels down.”
This mantra reminds you to “assume the position,” drawing your posterior away from the wall to align your center of gravity over your feet. Thus aligned, slightly drop your heels, engaging the ball of your foot and maximizing the shoe-surface-torock ratio. Gravity and rubber will do the rest. Remember those protractors from eighthgrade geometry? Well, neither do I, but think about it like this: your center of gravity (core), which you control with your hips and rump, should align with gravity’s pull. Rock angle shifts a bit; gravity stays constant. So if a slab’s angle lessens, your butt should move away from the stone. If a slab becomes more vertical, you’d likewise pull in your hips. I know — mind-blowing. We just passed eighth-grade geometry.

Don’t Dither Mentally.
“Finding a [mental] rhythm helps a ton,” says Rodden. Lurking Fear’s crux — 130 feet of sustained 5.13 slab divided by a sidewise dyno — necessitated steady, focussed, upward fl ow. “Rhythm not only helps with general movement, but with maintaining head space,” she adds. When holds begin to resemble potato chips or even disappear, our instinct is to get gripped — to tense our muscles, tighten our diaphragms, and slow to a crawl. “There is a huge anxiety associated with slab climbing,” says slab ace Justen Sjong. “It’s best to keep moving.” So save thoughts like ‘How am I attached?’ for the campfire, not the sharp end.

Don’t Dither Physically.
We often divide pitches into sections, viewing rests as islands of safety. Drop this approach with slabs, where your only goal should be the belay. (Say you were in a hurry to get home from work. Sure, you’d pause at red lights, but would you linger at the greens?) Clip the bolt, place a piece, pause briefl y to scan, but when you’ve fi nished your business, move steadily (don’t rush!) and breathe regularly, avoiding the dreaded sweaty palms or sewing-machine leg that comes with stalling. (As you ooze with nervous perspiration, your calves tire, fingers slide, and feet slosh, making that crux even more difficult.)

Your Hands = Feet
Think of your hands as suction cups on the smooth underbelly of fear. Sometimes you’re better off palming the rock than crimping down, which can pull your butt toward the wall. Stick to the mantra. The Scottish hardman Dave MacLeod, who last winter dispatched the 150-foot slab Walk of Life (5.13 or 5.14 R/X, depending on whom you ask), at North Devon, UK, suggests you use your thumbs — not palms — to press down on holds. MacLeod’s tip comes in handy when you’re forced to highstep or hand-foot match. Imagine cocking a revolver — your thumb becomes a hook that holds you in.

Enlarge Don’t Overreach.
As runouts grow, it can be tempting to stretch for handholds. Patience, young grasshopper. By overextending, you bring your center of gravity closer to the wall, decreasing rubber-to-rock contact. Instead, resume “the position,” and then make small, calculated hand and foot movements. Also, avoid undue highstepping — bigger moves lead to herky-jerky movements that destabilize your core, precipitating foot slips. “It’s not like a boulder problem or physical route,” adds Rodden. “You can’t try so hard that you’re violent. Instead, be determined but calm,“ saving the dynamic climbing for boulderers.

Avoid the Pump . . . in Your Calves.
Slab climbing can be a tiring, tedious affair. MacLeod seeks to rest his feet. “When you reach better [foot]holds, rest your feet by standing on your heels,” he says. Look for scoops or rails. If you find a single, big-enough-for-onefoot foothold, you can methodically switch feet, stretching or even shaking out the unweighted appendage like it’s a forearm. To increase his writing stamina, Climbing contributor Fitz Cahall likes to type minimum sets of 5,000 words while wearing wrist weights.

Highest Peaks in Ecuador to Attempt

CHIMBORAZO Elevation 20,703 ft (6,310 m)

Located 93 miles (150 km) south/southwest of Quito, this is the highest peak in Ecuador and the point on the Earth's surface closest to the sun due to the Earth's equatorial bulge.

Chimborazo has five summits, the Whymper 20,703 ft (6,310 m), Veintimilla 20,562 ft (6,267 m), Northern 20,342 ft (6,200 m), Polytechnic 18,045 ft (5,500 m) and Nicolas Martinez 18,045 ft (5,500 m).

The standard routes are the Veintimilla and Whymper routes from the refuge on the western side of the mountains. Only 4 expeditions have reached all 5 summits. Chimborazo is a difficult climb due to its elevation and should only be attempted by climbers with experience. An ice ax, crampons and rope are required. The Hermanos Carrel Refugio is at 15,750 ft (4,800 m) near the end of the road. There are 8 bunk beds with mattresses and 1 private room for 2 cooking facilities, running water, electricity and a toilet.

Summit attempts begin between 12 midnight and 1am. It is 8 - 9 hours from the refugio to the summit and another 4 hours to descend the mountain. The best weather is in December and between June to September.

COTOPAXI Elevation 19,348 ft (5,897 m)

One of the world's most perfectly shaped volcanoes, and the second highest peak in Ecuador. It last erupted in 1877 and it is currently emitting gas. From the summit, all of the other major peaks of Ecuador can be seen. Cotoxpaxi’s Jose-Ribas Refugio offers climbers 30 beds with mattresses, a kitchen and water.

Cotopaxi is one of our most popular climbs a summit attempt begins from the refugio around 1am and takes 5 to 8 hours. It is important to check snow conditions before setting out. An Ice Ax, Rope and Crampons are required.

Wilhelm Reiss and Angel Escobar made the first accent in 1872 on a southwestern face route. Today the standard route climbs Cotopaxi from the north. The best weather is in December and January though there is also very good weather between July and September. Conditions on Cotopaxi allow for year round climbing of the peak.

Cotopaxi National Park is the most popular National Park on the Ecuadorian Mainland. For more information please refer to our Cotopaxi page.

ANTISANA Elevation 18,715 ft (5,704 m)

Due to its position on the edge of the Andes above the Amazon Basin, this rarely climbed peak offers a technical challenge due to its many crevasses and bad weather. The large number of crevasses that opened during the 1997-1998 season has made the main summit route unusable.

Good route finding skills are required. Poor access can make just getting to base camp a challenge. The ascent requires glacier and rock climbing skills and experience with crevasses. Full climbing gear is recommended. The best weather is from December to January. An entry permit is required and can be obtained in Quito.

ALTAR Elevation 17,452 ft (5,319 m)

It doesn't matter where you view it from, this ancient and probably extinct volcano is the most impressive in Ecuador's Andes. The fifth highest, it is the most technical of all the mountains in Ecuador. Known as "Capac Urcu" in Quichua for “Sublime Mountain” it was renamed "Altar" by the Spanish due to the majesty of the mountain.

Hiking up to the crater is a spectacular walk including Andes forests, waterfalls and Collanes Valley. The stunning view from the crater includes Chimborazo in the background. There are 9 summits, which form the highest points on the crater. The normal routes are from the outside. The best weather is from December to May but it is often rainy.

The Variant or Arista del Calvario is the most popular route now. To reach the summit includes a class 4 rock climb, traversing the glacier, and an 80° climb over rock and ice climb, before reaching an ice wall and the last difficult rock section near the summit. From the Italian camp the ascent takes 12 hours depending on conditions. The trail can be very muddy and rubber boots and full climbing gear is recommended.

ILLINIZA SOUTH Elevation 17,268 ft (5263 m)

A technical 4-hour snow and ice climb to challenge even the most experienced climber. The steep snow slopes, crevasses, and the 50-60º ice wall are rewarded at the summit with a spectacular view across the Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi less than 19 miles (30 km) away. Whymper team member’s Jean and Luis Carrel first climbed the peak in 1880. The best weather can be found from June to January. Full climbing gear is needed.

SANGAY Elevation 17,160 ft (5,230 m)

The most photographed of Ecuador's peaks and the most active volcano in the world with activity every 10 minutes. To reach the volcano you first have to hike for 3 days. The climbing itself is pretty straightforward but because of the ever-present risk of an eruption this is the most dangerous peak in Ecuador and helmets are required. The best weather is between December and April.

ILLINIZA NORTH Elevation 17,061 ft (5,200 m)

Twenty years ago this was a glacial peak. In the early accounts of this mountain the climbers describe a technical ascent over heavy glaciers. Today the glaciers have completely disappeared, however in the first half of the year this peak still receives a covering of snow. While this mountain can be summitted in 2-4 hours it is a very long day if you are departing and returning to Quito. It is worth doing this extinct volcano over 2 days, spending a night in the refugio located in the saddle between the 2 peaks at 15,585 ft (4,750 m) The refugio has 12 bunks and cooking facilities and fills quickly.

The attack on Illiniza North's summit at begins at dawn and involves a trek along a knife-edge ridge, on a well-marked trail. In a couple of places it is necessary to leave the ridge to go around boulders, and it is advisable to have some protection including ropes, harness, and hard hats. In the first half of the year there can be a snow covering on the ridge and peak snow gear can be needed, including crampons and ice axe. A compass and map are suggested for the descent.

PICHINCHA Elevation 15,695 ft (4,784 m)

Pichincha Volcano is made up of 3 peaks the 3rd peak Guagua Pichincha 15,695ft (4784m) is the active crater. This volcano stands over Quito and has a long history of eruptions. From the edge of the paramo the hike to the summit takes about 4-hours. To reach the top there is a 7ft (2m) scramble, but no equipment is needed. From the summit we have an excellent view of Quito below us, and the "Avenue of Volcanoes" to the south. Guagua is particularly prone to clouding in and sudden storms.

CORAZON Elevation 15,710 ft (4,700 m)

Climbing this extinct volcano can be a long day from Quito. The climb begins in the inter-Andean valley hiking through fields and pastures at 9,187 ft (2,800 m). As you reach higher elevations the trail passes through the wind blown paramo. The final ascent is a scramble up a large rock band to the summit. It is worth having hard hats, but a rope is usually not needed.

Workout

Absolution
Breathe
30 min of lifting

Workout and Hike

Worked out in the morning on the Eliptical for 40 minutes and then Revs for 45 min.

Met up with A, H and O to hike Nihahi Ridge afterwards. Waited near the Little Elbow River Recreation Area (near forgetmenot pond parking for about 30 minutes). Then headed to the junction where the intersection was and finally met them about 2:30 pm. We started the hike at 3:30 pm and got back to Calgary around 9 pm.

Beautiful Century

Headed up Beautiful Century on Nanny Goat with the ACC on Saturday. Ken organized the trip and had Sera and myself as the participants for the climb. I was definitely lucky to have been able to join as I was near a computer when the notification came up on email.

We met at Lady of Assumption at 7:20 am. I was actually the last to arrive after grabbing a subway sandwich and getting gas; as i woke up 30 minutes early i was able to cook breakfast and do those 2 additional chores before meeting up which is extremely rare for me. Ken and I carpooled as Sera was staying the night in the Bow River Campground for the weekend. We got to the parking area around 8:30 ish and then started the hike towards the base of the climb. When we reached a large rock drainage we realized we missed the turnoff towards Nanny Goat and then started ascending the drainage where we quickly met up with the path that leads to BC. When we arrived we decided that Sera would second and I would take the third. Ken used a system that he learned from Sarah during the Alpine efficiency course where he clips an extra non-locker to a draw the feed the second rope through. (The main leading rope would go to the lower biner and then the second backup rope that would be connected to the 3rd climber would be clipped to the middle biner. I ended up leading pitch 3 which was a 5.7 climb and then the 6th pitch which was a 5.8 climb. They definitely didn't feel like they were rated that since there was a few roofs especially on the 5.8 climb. Essentially consistent to the other ratings i've experienced so far on that wall. Was great that Ken brought his walkie talkies so that we could talk very easily between the parties on top and on the bottom. We kept with the system that the lead had one and the last climber had one. I'll have to pick up a pair from Costco at some point and make sure they are AA.

The first 2 pitches were quite long and definitely the first 2 bolts on the first pitch were the crux of that pitch. The second pitch which was supposed to be the crux of the climb (5.10a) had an awkward start going to the right and then trusting your feet for a friction-y inverted move to a higher hold.
The 3rd pitch which i lead had 6 bolts which required some friction climbing felt more difficult than 5.7 but i managed through it.
The 4th pitch a 5.9, ended up being quite zigzagging.
Pitch 6 was 5.8 but felt like a 5.10. There were 2 roofs but the crux of the pitch was in the beginning of the climb.
Pitch 7 was relatively straight forward. We decided to put the second rope in the pack and tie off the middle to the leader with 2 independent lines going to each climber. The middle tied off using an overhand on a bite followed through both gear loops on the harness and then through the overhand knot tied with another overhand. This was able to be done because the pitch was meters and we were using a 70 meter rope. Would be quicker this way since there's less rope management.
We ended up doing the walkoff instead of rappelling and was the same descent as Kid Goat down the waterfall. Some scrambling down scree. There is a 15 ft downclimb on some easier 5th class slab; which can be done without a rope in dry conditions.
Got back to the car around 8 pm.

Great climb!

Twilight Zone (Kid Goat)

Ian organized a multi-pitch climb on Kid Goat in conjunction with the 2010 Rock Review with the ACC. The weather the day before was raining and the forecast had been 30% chance of precipitation. I met Nicole at the Kananaskis casino at 11:30 am and we car pooled from there to the parking area for Kid Goat. She had the printout of the directions which were in text. When we hit the first gravel road we turned right and then headed too far towards Goat Slabs. Ian called us when we were about 30 minutes down that pathway when he realized that we were on the incorrect path. We turned around when we realized this and then started going back towards the landfill. When we got back we found the correct path only for a while when we took another incorrect path too early which led us to a sport climbing area which was more lower in elevation and west of the actual multipitch climbs on Kid Goat. When we realized this we were both comfortable to scramble to the base towards where Ian was (at the bottom of Grey Waves). We finally met up and then headed towards the Twilight Zone. Since there were a number of climbers on the wall that weekend probably due to the Rock Review, we headed to the climb quite quickly. We decided that i would second and Nicole would follow. This was because it would be easier to give her beta from up above on hand holds that might be available but weren't obvious. The route was all trad and had only a couple of bolts and pitons on the route. Although there were bolted belays for the climb. It took us a few hours to reach the top and only drizzled on us very briefly. Another day of luck when the initial weather forecast was much worse than actually realized. We descended down the Waterfall (gully) between Kid Goat and Nanny goat rather then rap the route.

Bolivia Peaks

http://www.bolivianmountains.com/climbing/illampu.html

ILLAMPU

CHACHACOMANI & CHEAROCO
Altitude: 6,100m & 6,150m
These two peaks are in one of the least visited areas of the Cordillera Real and are the perfect challenge for the ice climber with some experience already under his belt. The routes to the summit have been very rarely tackled, so if you are after a very unique climbing expedition, this is the one for you.

ILLIMANI

JANCOHUMA

CONDORIRI AREA

PARINACOTA & SAJAMA

SAJAMA

HUAYNA POTOSI

PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO

CHARQUINI