On Feb 7th i attended my first Ice Climbing event. We went to the junkyards in Canmore, which turns out is a very common area that people generally learn this sport. The ice was light blue in a lot of the area which is considered very good ice to climb on to set ice screws. In very colder temperatures, say below -23 C people are not supposed to climb as the ice becomes brittle and more dangerous to set screws.
Our guide was Andrew Wexler, who had been climbing since 1999 and had spent quite a lot of time in South America guiding trips in Ecuador, Bolivia and Argentina. He had summitted Aconcogua 5 times and had just come back from a trip from Argentina on a successful summit in January of 2010. He's rated as an assistant guide for Alpine, rock and skiing on the ACMG registry. The members of the group that i car pooled with up to Canmore was Simon, an assistant professor from University of Calgary who taught Chemistry and Nanotechnology. He lived in Vancouver for quite some time and attended Simon Fraser university. He was our driver this first week and loved the mountains. Neil and Erica I had met before through the ACC Calgary section and respectively worked as a compliance officer for Bridgewater and a teaching assistant with the Calgary Board of Education at Ernest Manning. Caitlin and Nathan both attended the University of Calgary and I saw both of them at the CCC on the following Thursday coincidentally when I attended a Meetup group.
Today, we learned about anchors and the acronym SRENE
SOLID - ice must be solid
REDUNDANT - if one piece fails, the other still works
EQUALIZED - share the weight out, no slack in the system
Non-EXTENDING - If something fails, you don't drop a few feet or swing off wildly to one side
One of the most useful anchors we learned was the V-thread, which is often used to rappel and people use them as very powerful anchors if bolting stations cannot be found. A threading device to catch the prussik on the other side of the V thread is very useful which can be homemade from a coat hanger and a pair of plyers. (Reminder: to try and make one at home instead of paying $20 for one.) It stuffs into one of the ice screws for easy packing when not used. These anchors probably need longer screws to actually make so the two holes actually connect. Andrew said its quite easy if you just eyeball it with a finger and imagine the plane going through and intersecting with the already made hole. He said the V thread will actually hold about 5000 lbs so they are extremely strong. These anchors can also be used by actually feeding your entire rope through the V thread so no piece of gear needs to be sacrifced in theory. However, Neil raised a great point that if the end of the rope gets stuck on a multi-pitch route you could be very much in trouble on the descent. Sharp and new ice screws make a huge difference in cutting the ice efficiently. (I remember Wayne mentioning that you can get screws sharpened when they dull out over time which is why he just buys used screws and then ships a bunch out at the same time to be sharpened and returned via mail.)
The access point to the junkyards was the first turn off to the left after the bridge to Grassi Lakes. Its actually the entrance where Azi and I went for the Grassi Lakes trail head (not the rock climbing access point, but the one before it.) From the parking lot you head down to the gravel car path that has a gate and follow the large path until you come to a huge electical Transalta station and then head up the wooden steps. At the T intersection along the main pathway head left (which is where everyone puts on their crampons. From there about 3 minutes and then you arrive at the junkyards. Curious to see what this area looks like in the summer.)
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Monday, February 1, 2010
List of Movies i want to see
City of God
Rear Window
Once upon a time in the West
Dr. Stranglove
Sunset Blvd
Taxi Driver
Vertigo
Lawrence of Arabia
Wall E
Paths of Glory
M, a film by Fritz lane
The Third Man
Requim for a Dream
Rear Window
Once upon a time in the West
Dr. Stranglove
Sunset Blvd
Taxi Driver
Vertigo
Lawrence of Arabia
Wall E
Paths of Glory
M, a film by Fritz lane
The Third Man
Requim for a Dream
Religulous and Constant Gardener
I'm in a phase of not really being that motivated to do anything except pursue my hobbies and interests. I figure if you only live one life you might as well try and pursue those things which you enjoy the most.
I caught up on some movies recently watching Octopussy, Religulous, Constant Gardener, Seven Pounds and Che.
Che - had an incorrect quote about Dostoevsky writing War and peace but the X factor that Tolstoy wrote about was correct about having the ambition to win wars was the crucial point in most wars or revolutions. The power and mind, ambition and passion of the people are key to what eventually wins. Also i found interesting was the quote about all revolutionary leaders just have love in their hearts. Love for truth and justice. Or the revolution will fade.
Relgulous - Have more respect for Bill Maher now. He has very similar ways in communicating on film as i probably would have if i had been an editor. Essentially adding in tunes and funny bits and pieces in the background that he thinks about when someone is saying something (scarface bits, flintstones). Interesting when he talked about the Egyptian legend of Horus (God of the Sky, God of War and God of Protection). Survey done in Italy of who they would pray to if there was a major catastrophic event that happened. Jesus was 6th on the list.
Interesting the connection with Horus - made me sign out a couple of books from the CPL on if Jesus was a derivation of a bunch of pagan gods; which of course led me to look up stories behind some of the constellations:
ORION:
Orion attempted to gain possession of the maiden by violence. Her father, incensed at this conduct, having made Orion drunk, deprived him of his sight and cast him out on the seashore. The blinded hero followed the sound of a Cyclops' hammer till he reached Lemnos, and came to the forge of Vulcan, who, taking pity on him, gave him Kedalion, one of his men, to be his guide to the abode of the sun. Placing Kedalion on his shoulders, Orion proceeded to the east, and there meeting the sun-god, was restored to sight by his beam. After this he dwelt as a hunter with Diana, with whom he was a favourite, and it is even said she was about to marry him. Her brother [Apollo] was highly displeased and chid her [she was, after all, a virgin huntress], but to no purpose. One day, observing Orion wading through the ocean with his head just above the water, Apollo pointed it out to his sister and maintained that she could not hit that black thing on the sea. The archer-goddess discharged a shaft with fatal aim. The waves rolled the body of Orion to the land, and bewailing her fatal error with many tears, Diana placed him among the stars (Bulfinch's Mythology, 191-192). It is also stated in some versions that Apollo, worried for Diana's chastity, sent a scorpion to kill Orion. Orion is one of the most well-known constellations, visible in the southern sky during northern hemisphere winters. He is generally shown as a hunter attacking a bull with an upraised club, and is easily recognizable by his bright belt of three stars. In addition, his shoulder is marked by the red supergiant Betelgeuse (literally "armpit of the central one" in Arabic), and his left leg is marked by the blue-white supergiant Rigel. According to the versions of the myth which have him killed by Scorpius, the two were placed on the opposite sides of the sky from each other so that they are never visible at the same time.
Heracles
The adventures of Heracles can be paired with the following constellations : (1) the Nemean Lion, constellation Leo ; (2) the Hydra and Crab, constellations Hydra and Cancer ; (3) the Stymphalian Birds, constellations Lyra and Cygnus ; (4) the Cretan Bull, constellation Taurus ; (5) the Hesperian Dragon, constellation Serpens ; (6) Herakles wrestling Apollon, constellation Gemini ; (7) Prometheus and the Caucasian Eagle, constellations Hercules and Aquilla ; (8) the centaur Cheiron or Pholus, constellation Saggitarius or Centaurus ; et. al.
Andromeda
ANDROMEDA A Princess of Ethiopia, daughter of Cepheus and Cassiopea. Her mother offended the gods by boasting that the girl was more beautiful than the Nereids. Poseidon in wrath sent a sea-monster to devour the girl. When she was chained to the rocks, the hero Perseus spied her, slew the beast, and carried her off as his wife. The gods as a memorial, set the whole family amongst the stars as constellations. (Hyginus 2.11 ; Aratus 197)
Aquila
EAGLE APHRODITE When Zeus wished to seduce the goddess Nemesis, he transformed himself into a swan, and bade Aphrodite pursue him into her lap in the guise of an eagle. In this way he accomplished his seduction and in memorial placed an eagle and swan amongst the stars. (Hyginus 2.8)
EAGLE OF PROMETHEUS An eagle which was set by Zeus feed on the liver of the chained Titan Prometheus. When Heracles freed him from his chains, he slew the eagle with an arrow, and Zeus placed the pair amongst the stars as Aquila (eagle) and Sagitta (arrow). (Hyginus 2.15)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 1 The eagle which Zeus sent to snatch the handsome Trojan youth Ganymedes up to heaven. The boy and eagle were placed amongst the stars as the adjacent constellations Aquarius and Aquila. (Hyginus 2.16)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 2 An eagle which appeared to Zeus as a sign of good omen when he was sacrificing on an altar prior to the commencement of his war against the Titans. To commemorate the event he placed the eagle and altar amongst the stars as the constellations Aquila and Ara. (Hyginus 2.16)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 3 When Hermes was wooing the goddess Aphrodite she spurned his advances. Zeus, pitying his son, sent an eagle which snatched away her sandal and delivered it the god, which he used to barter for her favours. The eagle was rewarded with a place amonst the stars. (Hyginus 2.16)
MEROPES A King of Cos whose wife was killed by Artemis for spurning her worship. When he was about to commit suicide in his grief, Hera transformed Meropes into an eagle and placed him amongst the stars in the form of Aquila. (Hyginus 2.16 on Aglaosthenes)CANIS MAJOR
LAELAPS A magical dog which was destined never to surrender a chase. It was first bestowed on Europa by Zeus, who passed it to her son Minos, and from him to Procris and Cephalus. The last of these set it to hunt down the Teumessian fox, which was destined never to be caught. To resolve the contrary fates of the two animals, Zeus placed them amongst the stars as the constellations Canis Major and Minor to play out the chase unresolved for eternity. (Hyginus 2.35)
DOG OF ORION The dog of the giant hunter Orion who stands above it in the heavens. He leads it in the chase of the hare (Lepus) or the fox (Canis Minor). (Hyginus 2.35)
MAERA The dog of Icarius, a devotee of the god Dionysus. When his master was murdered, and his mistress committed suicide, the dog threw himself down a well. All three were then placed amongst the stars as Procyon (Canis Minor), Bootes and Virgo. (Hyginus 2.4 & 2.35)
SIRIUS The dog-star which crowns the head of the constellation Canis Major. Its rising in conjunction with the sun at dawn was thought to bring on the scorching heat of mid-summer. The Egyptians called it the star of Isis. (Hyginus 2.35)
CASSIOPEA
A Queen of Ethiopia, mother of the lovely Andromeda. When she boasted that her daughter was more beautiful than the Nereids, Poseidon sent a sea monster to devour the girl. She was rescued by Perseus, who slew the beast. As a memorial the whole family were placed amongst the stars, but Cassiopea because of her pride, was set to hang eternally upside down on her throne. (Hyginus 2.10 on Euripides and Sophocles)
CEPHEUS
A King of Aethiopia and father of the lovely Andromeda. He was forced to sacrifice his daughter to a sea monster because the boasts of his wife Cassiopea offended the gods. But the hero Perseus slew the beast and rescued her. As a memorial the whole family - Cepheus, Cassiopea, Andromeda and Perseus - were placed amongst the stars. (Hyginus 2.9)
DRACO
HESPERIAN DRAGON The huge serpent which guarded the golden apples of the Hesperides. After the beast was slain by Heracles, Hera placed it amongst the stars as Draco. (Hyginus 2.3 on Eratosthenes)
DRAGON OF ATHENA A gigantic serpent which was cast at the goddess Athena during the giant war. She caught it in her hands and set it about the northern pole as the constellation Draco. (Hyginus 2.3)
I caught up on some movies recently watching Octopussy, Religulous, Constant Gardener, Seven Pounds and Che.
Che - had an incorrect quote about Dostoevsky writing War and peace but the X factor that Tolstoy wrote about was correct about having the ambition to win wars was the crucial point in most wars or revolutions. The power and mind, ambition and passion of the people are key to what eventually wins. Also i found interesting was the quote about all revolutionary leaders just have love in their hearts. Love for truth and justice. Or the revolution will fade.
Relgulous - Have more respect for Bill Maher now. He has very similar ways in communicating on film as i probably would have if i had been an editor. Essentially adding in tunes and funny bits and pieces in the background that he thinks about when someone is saying something (scarface bits, flintstones). Interesting when he talked about the Egyptian legend of Horus (God of the Sky, God of War and God of Protection). Survey done in Italy of who they would pray to if there was a major catastrophic event that happened. Jesus was 6th on the list.
Interesting the connection with Horus - made me sign out a couple of books from the CPL on if Jesus was a derivation of a bunch of pagan gods; which of course led me to look up stories behind some of the constellations:
ORION:
Orion attempted to gain possession of the maiden by violence. Her father, incensed at this conduct, having made Orion drunk, deprived him of his sight and cast him out on the seashore. The blinded hero followed the sound of a Cyclops' hammer till he reached Lemnos, and came to the forge of Vulcan, who, taking pity on him, gave him Kedalion, one of his men, to be his guide to the abode of the sun. Placing Kedalion on his shoulders, Orion proceeded to the east, and there meeting the sun-god, was restored to sight by his beam. After this he dwelt as a hunter with Diana, with whom he was a favourite, and it is even said she was about to marry him. Her brother [Apollo] was highly displeased and chid her [she was, after all, a virgin huntress], but to no purpose. One day, observing Orion wading through the ocean with his head just above the water, Apollo pointed it out to his sister and maintained that she could not hit that black thing on the sea. The archer-goddess discharged a shaft with fatal aim. The waves rolled the body of Orion to the land, and bewailing her fatal error with many tears, Diana placed him among the stars (Bulfinch's Mythology, 191-192). It is also stated in some versions that Apollo, worried for Diana's chastity, sent a scorpion to kill Orion. Orion is one of the most well-known constellations, visible in the southern sky during northern hemisphere winters. He is generally shown as a hunter attacking a bull with an upraised club, and is easily recognizable by his bright belt of three stars. In addition, his shoulder is marked by the red supergiant Betelgeuse (literally "armpit of the central one" in Arabic), and his left leg is marked by the blue-white supergiant Rigel. According to the versions of the myth which have him killed by Scorpius, the two were placed on the opposite sides of the sky from each other so that they are never visible at the same time.
Heracles
The adventures of Heracles can be paired with the following constellations : (1) the Nemean Lion, constellation Leo ; (2) the Hydra and Crab, constellations Hydra and Cancer ; (3) the Stymphalian Birds, constellations Lyra and Cygnus ; (4) the Cretan Bull, constellation Taurus ; (5) the Hesperian Dragon, constellation Serpens ; (6) Herakles wrestling Apollon, constellation Gemini ; (7) Prometheus and the Caucasian Eagle, constellations Hercules and Aquilla ; (8) the centaur Cheiron or Pholus, constellation Saggitarius or Centaurus ; et. al.
Andromeda
ANDROMEDA A Princess of Ethiopia, daughter of Cepheus and Cassiopea. Her mother offended the gods by boasting that the girl was more beautiful than the Nereids. Poseidon in wrath sent a sea-monster to devour the girl. When she was chained to the rocks, the hero Perseus spied her, slew the beast, and carried her off as his wife. The gods as a memorial, set the whole family amongst the stars as constellations. (Hyginus 2.11 ; Aratus 197)
Aquila
EAGLE APHRODITE When Zeus wished to seduce the goddess Nemesis, he transformed himself into a swan, and bade Aphrodite pursue him into her lap in the guise of an eagle. In this way he accomplished his seduction and in memorial placed an eagle and swan amongst the stars. (Hyginus 2.8)
EAGLE OF PROMETHEUS An eagle which was set by Zeus feed on the liver of the chained Titan Prometheus. When Heracles freed him from his chains, he slew the eagle with an arrow, and Zeus placed the pair amongst the stars as Aquila (eagle) and Sagitta (arrow). (Hyginus 2.15)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 1 The eagle which Zeus sent to snatch the handsome Trojan youth Ganymedes up to heaven. The boy and eagle were placed amongst the stars as the adjacent constellations Aquarius and Aquila. (Hyginus 2.16)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 2 An eagle which appeared to Zeus as a sign of good omen when he was sacrificing on an altar prior to the commencement of his war against the Titans. To commemorate the event he placed the eagle and altar amongst the stars as the constellations Aquila and Ara. (Hyginus 2.16)
EAGLE OF ZEUS 3 When Hermes was wooing the goddess Aphrodite she spurned his advances. Zeus, pitying his son, sent an eagle which snatched away her sandal and delivered it the god, which he used to barter for her favours. The eagle was rewarded with a place amonst the stars. (Hyginus 2.16)
MEROPES A King of Cos whose wife was killed by Artemis for spurning her worship. When he was about to commit suicide in his grief, Hera transformed Meropes into an eagle and placed him amongst the stars in the form of Aquila. (Hyginus 2.16 on Aglaosthenes)CANIS MAJOR
LAELAPS A magical dog which was destined never to surrender a chase. It was first bestowed on Europa by Zeus, who passed it to her son Minos, and from him to Procris and Cephalus. The last of these set it to hunt down the Teumessian fox, which was destined never to be caught. To resolve the contrary fates of the two animals, Zeus placed them amongst the stars as the constellations Canis Major and Minor to play out the chase unresolved for eternity. (Hyginus 2.35)
DOG OF ORION The dog of the giant hunter Orion who stands above it in the heavens. He leads it in the chase of the hare (Lepus) or the fox (Canis Minor). (Hyginus 2.35)
MAERA The dog of Icarius, a devotee of the god Dionysus. When his master was murdered, and his mistress committed suicide, the dog threw himself down a well. All three were then placed amongst the stars as Procyon (Canis Minor), Bootes and Virgo. (Hyginus 2.4 & 2.35)
SIRIUS The dog-star which crowns the head of the constellation Canis Major. Its rising in conjunction with the sun at dawn was thought to bring on the scorching heat of mid-summer. The Egyptians called it the star of Isis. (Hyginus 2.35)
CASSIOPEA
A Queen of Ethiopia, mother of the lovely Andromeda. When she boasted that her daughter was more beautiful than the Nereids, Poseidon sent a sea monster to devour the girl. She was rescued by Perseus, who slew the beast. As a memorial the whole family were placed amongst the stars, but Cassiopea because of her pride, was set to hang eternally upside down on her throne. (Hyginus 2.10 on Euripides and Sophocles)
CEPHEUS
A King of Aethiopia and father of the lovely Andromeda. He was forced to sacrifice his daughter to a sea monster because the boasts of his wife Cassiopea offended the gods. But the hero Perseus slew the beast and rescued her. As a memorial the whole family - Cepheus, Cassiopea, Andromeda and Perseus - were placed amongst the stars. (Hyginus 2.9)
DRACO
HESPERIAN DRAGON The huge serpent which guarded the golden apples of the Hesperides. After the beast was slain by Heracles, Hera placed it amongst the stars as Draco. (Hyginus 2.3 on Eratosthenes)
DRAGON OF ATHENA A gigantic serpent which was cast at the goddess Athena during the giant war. She caught it in her hands and set it about the northern pole as the constellation Draco. (Hyginus 2.3)
Friday, October 30, 2009
Ezra Pound Poems
An Immortality
Sing we for love and idleness,
Naught else is worth the having.
Though I have been in many a land,
There is naught else in living.
And I would rather have my sweet,
Though rose-leaves die of grieving,
Than do high deeds in Hungary
To pass all men's believing.
SALUTATION
O generation of the thoroughly smug
and thoroughly uncomfortable,
I have seen fishermen picnicking in the sun,
I have seen them with untidy families,
I have seen their smiles full of teeth
and heard ungainly laughter.
And I am happier than you are,
And they were happier than I am;
And the fish swim in the lake
and do not even own clothing.
Taking Leave of a Friend
Blue mountains to the north of the walls,
White river winding about them;
Here we must make separation
And go out through a thousand miles of dead grass.
Mind like a floating wide cloud,
Sunset like the parting of old acquaintances
Who bow over their clasped hands at a distance.
Our horses neigh to each others
as we are departing.
Sing we for love and idleness,
Naught else is worth the having.
Though I have been in many a land,
There is naught else in living.
And I would rather have my sweet,
Though rose-leaves die of grieving,
Than do high deeds in Hungary
To pass all men's believing.
SALUTATION
O generation of the thoroughly smug
and thoroughly uncomfortable,
I have seen fishermen picnicking in the sun,
I have seen them with untidy families,
I have seen their smiles full of teeth
and heard ungainly laughter.
And I am happier than you are,
And they were happier than I am;
And the fish swim in the lake
and do not even own clothing.
Taking Leave of a Friend
Blue mountains to the north of the walls,
White river winding about them;
Here we must make separation
And go out through a thousand miles of dead grass.
Mind like a floating wide cloud,
Sunset like the parting of old acquaintances
Who bow over their clasped hands at a distance.
Our horses neigh to each others
as we are departing.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
CLIMBING TECHNIQUE
Here's a great "target-practice" drill for developing foot focus. Pick a technical route (indoors or outside) that's about one full number grade below your on-sight ability. Attempt to toprope the entire climb with a sustained, narrow focus fixed on your feet. With each placement, look for the best part of the hold and actually watch your foot go onto the hold in an ideal placement--try to hit the bull's eye of each target hold. Maintain your focus on that foot as you weight the hold--strive to feel each foot hold and to keep your foot completely still as you stand up on the hold. Meanwhile, place as little focus as possible in other areas such as reading the route ahead, your belayer, and so forth. The goal here is to train footwork, so don't worry about your overall performance on the route. This drill is indeed difficult, but over time you will develop great foot
awareness and, undoubtedly, climb harder!
PERFECT MOVES AND ROUTES BEFORE GOING ON: Becoming an outstanding climber comes only by way of a constant resolve to master techniques and long complex sequences to the point of near-perfection.
TECHNIQUE:
1) Precise Foot Placements That Carry Your Weight
2) Grip Handholds "Lightly" and Let Arms Play a Secondary Role
Left Right movement
3) Maintain perfect economy - move like a cat
Quiet feet
Rhythm of movement -
Step, Step, Reach, Reach (focuses on feet) OR
step, reach, step, step, reach, reach OR
step, step, reach, step,reach, reach
Steady momementum - through the crux. You will have to fight inertia if you don't go through it smoothly and fast
Pace
4) Optimize Use of Rest Positions - Rest positions on vertical to overhanging climbs make complete weighting of the feet more difficult and often impossible. While you still want to place as much weight as possible on the footholds, a significant amount of weight will remain on your arms. In this case it's absolutely vital that you hang with straight arms, so that the bones are providing the support, not the muscles of the upper arm. Still, your forearm muscles will need to
contract in order to maintain a grip on the handhold. The best strategy then, is to attain a stable stance and alternate shaking out your arms every ten to twenty seconds. This way, both arms take turns resting. At some point, however, hanging out at the rest begins to cost more energy than you can recover--it's at this time that you need to begin climbing toward the next rest spot.
5) Flagging - Remember Emily Harrington's picture - left arm straight out way to the left. Right foot way to the right. Want center of gravity as closest to the right as possible so flag with left foot crossing back over ur right heel.
Try Stemming as well on a right angle wall - left arm and right foot,
switch all the way up
Use Flagging to Enhance Stability
Flagging is the alternative technique for maintaining stability when a left-right hand-foot combination is not possible. Suppose you are attempting to use a right hand and right foot combination to propel upward movement. Upon releasing your left hand to make a reach upward, you will immediately begin to barndoor. This sideways rotation is hard to fight, and often results in a fall. However, a simple flagging of the free leg (in this case the left) significantly improves stability and balance by shifting your center of gravity more directly over the supporting (right) foot and under the supporting (right) hand.
Exploit Mantling (push and pull with hands) and Hand-Foot Matches
Another important technique for ascending difficult "big-move" climbs is the hand-foot match. Let’s consider the most common scenario of needing to mantle with one hand while the other hand is pulling. The pulling hand will usually be positioned above your head while the mantling hand will contact a hold somewhere near your torso. Depending on the size of the hold to be mantled, you may be able to press your entire palm onto the hold or, possibly, just your fingertips. The left-right combination of pushing and pulling hands provides great stability, so you will be able to upgrade one or, possibly, both feet. Quite often you’ll need to match a foot to the handhold on which you are mantling. Regardless, the mantle is complete when you are able to weight your feet, gain balance, and upgrade your hand from the mantle.
6) Clever Use of Opposing Forces
More difficult climbs tend to be more devious, so you’ll need to consider all the other possible arm positions—side pull, undercling, and Gaston—and figure out how to match one of these with an opposing foot placement.
Side-Pull Arm and Outside Edge of Opposite Foot
Side-pulling hands are a staple move on almost every moderate to advanced climb. While this move is a bit less intuitive than down pulling, you will quickly gain comfort in its use. Most important is the foot position you select to oppose the side-pulling hand. In most cases it’s best to use the outside edge of the opposing foot, not the inside edge. Doing this may feel awkward at first, but you’ll find a natural sense of stability once you learn to appropriately set your hips over the outside-edging foot. The key is to concentrate on rotating your hips so that the hip opposite the pulling hand is turned into the wall—that is, your face and chest will rotate toward the side
pulling hand. This very stable position will allow you to step up your free (nonopposing) leg and quite possibly your free (nonopposing) hand as well.
Gaston and Inside Edge of Opposite Foot
The Gaston (aka reverse side pull) is the most unnatural and weak arm position for beginners, yet it’s a fairly common move needed to unlock many crux sequences. Use of the Gaston is best opposed by the inside edge of the opposite foot. Combining a Gaston with an outside-edging
foot is strenuous but doable if absolutely needed. Practice this move in a variety of ways to gain comfort and strength in its use. As with all these advanced moves, the bouldering area is the ideal proving ground to experiment with and learn the skills.
Undercling and Inside or Outside Edge of Opposite Foot
Often overlooked by beginner-level climbers, undercling hand positions are actually quite easy to perform. What’s more, an underclinging hand helps maximize your reach with the free hand, and it positions your arm and body in a naturally strong position. Therefore, the undercling
is a move you want to practice and put to frequent use.
Side-Pulling Left and Right Hands
Use of opposing handholds is a key move for unlocking a sequence that lacks any usable down-pull or undercling handholds. Most common are two opposing side pulls that you’ll draw inward to create tension through your arms, shoulders, and upper body. While you will be unable to create much upward movement, this opposition will allow you to upgrade one or both feet. Ideally, you’ll want to upgrade the foot that opposes the better of the two side pulls, so that it sets up a stable left-right combination. This will enable you to release the other side-pulling hand so as to upgrade it to the next hold.
Opposing Gaston holds
Though strenuous, you may occasionally need to grab two Gastons at or just above head-height and pull outward in order to support your weight while upgrading a foot position. This is a most advanced move that requires a high level of base strength. A word of caution, however: Using a Gaston hold on an overhanging wall places great force on the shoulder joint and in rare cases can cause injury. Proceed carefully.
7) TWIST LOCK and BACK STEP on Overhang
Initially limit your practice of the twist lock and backstep to boulder problems that overhangs about 20 degrees past vertical. As you acquire skill, expand use onto even steeper boulder problems as well as onto overhanging toprope climbs.
Use of the twist lock and backstep together helps draw your body in toward the surface of the overhanging wall. This changes the force vector on the handholds, making them feel more positive and secure. More important, this drawing-in of the body places more weight onto the footholds. However, proper execution of these moves requires practice and a significant amount of strength through the core muscles of the torso.
The twist lock is typically used to ease the upgrading of a hand on an overhanging section of wall. For example, consider the situation in which your right hand is on a good hold and you’d like to reach up high with the left hand. While you could attempt this movestraight-on—chest facing toward the wall in a neutral position—it’s far less strenuous to turn your left hip to the wall before making the reach upward (see photo). Proper positioning of the feet is critical for making this move work. Since the left hip is turning to the wall, you’ll need to use the outside edge of your left foot on a hold somewhere below or in back of your body (hence the term “backstep”).
Usually you’ll find a complementary right foothold to help maintain the twist-lock body position. The feet then press in unison while the right arm pulls down and in toward your torso, creating the twist lock. Finding just the right body position is the key to providing a secure twist lock; when you do you’ll notice that a surprising lack of effort is needed to reach up and acquire the next left handhold. This amazingly efficient locomotion over steep terrain is the magic of the
twist-lock technique.
8) Heel Hooking
Your primary use of heel hooks will come when turning the lip of a roof, topping out on a boulder problem, or copping a quick shakeout while on steep stone. In these cases, you’ll likely have your hands on holds at or above head level and intend to place one of your heels on a hold off to the side near shoulder level. Which heel you choose to hook with depends on two factors: the availability of a decent-sized hold on which to place your heel, and the location of the next
handhold that you hope to acquire. This next reach up is best made with the hand on the same side as the heel hook. So if it looks like the next attainable hold is set up for the right hand, it would be best to use a right heel hook. Once set, pull with the heel hook as if it were an extra arm. Often it helps to think about pulling your heel toward your rear end; this will maximize use of the leg muscles and help shift your center of gravity toward the heel hook. Meanwhile, the
other foot should inside-edge or smear on the wall to help contribute to the upward motion. As you gain elevation, make a quick reach to the next handhold and then switch your heel hook into a standard step-down foot placement.
Toe Hooking
Toe hooking is a foot move used mostly in pulling overhangs or in navigating roofs. This technique involves simply hooking as much of the toe and top (laces) portion of your shoe as possible on a large protruding hold. Sometimes you will toe hook onto a hold with a bent leg, and then straighten that leg as your hands move out the roof. Ideally you’ll have one foot toe hooking while the other foot pushes off a nearby hold. This opposing push-pull combination enhances the foot purchase on the holds and lowers the chance your feet will come swinging off the roof (a common problem). Strive to keep your arms and legs in the straight position as much as possible so that your body weight is being supported more by bone than by muscles. Done properly, you can navigate a surprisingly large roof with the limiting factor being forearm endurance. Experiment with this foot technique in the bouldering area and you’ll gradually gain skill and confidence in climbing with your back to the ground!
Knee Locks
Knee locks are a boon on overhanging walls and roofs with large protruding holds—that is, if you know the technique and can find a position to exploit this “thank-god” move. Consider a severely
overhanging indoor climb with no obvious rest positions. Chances are the forerunner has positioned two holds in just the right way so that you can place your toe on one hold and then lock your knee against a larger opposing hold. Such a knee lock can provide surprising purchase
and it will often allow you to drop one hand at a time to shake out and chalk up. When climbing outdoors you will occasionally come upon a knee lock that’s so solid you’ll be able to cop a rare, no-hands inverted rest! Keep your eyes open for a downward-facing block (with an opposing toe hold) or a knee-width crack or oblong pocket--miss such a knee-lock and you've missed perhaps the most important hold of the climb!
ONE ARM LUNGES:
This entry-level reactive-training exercise is just dynamic enough to stimulate fast-twitch muscle fibers and develop contact strength. As a feet-on exercise, however, it's much less stressful on the joints and tendon than Campus training. Use this exercise two a week for several months before graduating to the various campus-training exercises to be covered in upcoming articles. Here's how to perform One-Arm Lunging (also known as One-Arm Deadpoint).
1. Select a section of indoor wall that overhangs anywhere from 5 to 25 degrees past vertical—the steeper the wall, the more difficult the exercise—and possesses numerous medium-size hand- and footholds.Ideally, you can set a few modular holds specifically for one-arm deadpoint training. Set two footholds about a foot off the ground, and then set two nontweaky medium-size handholds, one in front of your face and the other about 2 feet above that.
2. Climb onto the wall and balance your weight evenly on the two footholds. Grip the hold in front of your face with one hand, then let go with the other hand and hold it behind your back.
3. Begin lunging up and down between the two handholds. Optimal technique is to draw your body toward the wall and lunge up to the top hold, doing so all in one smooth motion. This drawing-in of the body facilitates a quick grab at the next hold while upward momentum briefly reduces your load—this is commonly called a deadpoint move. Upon catching the top handhold, immediately drop back down to the bottom hold and, without pause, explode back up to the top hold. Avoid catching the bottom hold with a straight arm--maintaining a slight bend in the elbow limits stress on the elbow and shoulder.
4. Continue lunging up and down for eight to twelve total hand movements, then step down off the wall.
5. After a brief rest, step back up on the wall and perform a set of one-arm deadpoints with your other hand.
6. Perform two or three total sets with each hand.
CAMPUS LOCKOFFS
1. Begin by hanging with both hands from a low rung on the board.
2. Pull up forcefully with both hands, then in a fast, continuous motion, lunge up with one hand to grab the highest rung possible (usually the third or fourth rung, depending on the spacing).
3. Engage the high rung for an instant, and then drop back down to the starting hold and lower to the starting (hanging) position.
4. Immediately pull back up and lunge with the opposite hand to grab a high rung.
5. Again, engage the high rung for a moment before dropping down to the starting hold and lowering to your starting position.
6. Continue in this alternating fashion for up to twelve total touches (six per hand).
7. Rest for three to five minutes before performing another set. Do two to four sets.
# Training tip: You can make this exercise harder by touching, but not grabbing on to, the high hold at the top of each lunge. Try to hold the lock-off and touch for two seconds.
CAMPUS LADDERING
1. Hang with nearly straight arms from the bottom rung of the campus board. Your hands should be about shoulder width or slightly less apart.
2. Striving for brisk, fluid motion, begin laddering hand-over-hand up the campus board using alternating rungs for your left and right hands. Your goal is to ascend the board as quickly as possible.
3. Match hands on the top rung, and then descend carefully by dropping hand by hand down alternating rungs to the bottom position.
4. Perform a total of six to twelve hand moves, never more. To increase difficulty, skip rungs as you hand-over-hand up the board.
5. Rest for three to five minutes, before engaging in a second set.
6. Limit yourself to a total of three sets during your formative workouts. As you gain conditioning, you can do up to ten sets or begin a gradual shift to training with the Double Dynos.
Training tip: Laddering on small rungs tends to train contact (finger) strength more than upper-body power, whereas longer reaches on larger rungs better isolates one-arm power and lock-off strength.
CAMPUS TRAINING DOUBLE DYNOS
1. Begin by hanging from the third or fourth rung on the Campus Board. (It’s good to number your rungs beginning with the bottom rung as “number one.”)
2. Simultaneously let go with both hands and drop to catch the next lower rung (number two).
3. Immediately explode upward with both hands to catch the third or fourth (harder) rung. This is one full repetition, but don't stop!
4. Without hesitation, drop down and again catch the second rung.
5. Explode back up to the third or fourth rung.
6. Continue this double-handed, drop-down-and-explode-up sequence between two rungs for up to six repetitions. Stop prematurely instead of risking a failed downward catch—have a bouldering crash pad in place just in case.
7. Rest for three to five minutes before engaging in a second set.
8. Perform a total of just two or three sets during your formative workouts; however, you can build up to six sets (a combined total of Campus Laddering and Double Dynos) as you gain conditioning and confidence.
9. Limit yourself to just one or two sessions per week, and cycle on and off campus training every two or three weeks.
# Training tip: Execute Double Dynos only on rungs that are 0.75 inch or more in depth. In terms of training stimulus, speed of repetitions is more important than the number of reps, distance traveled, or size of rungs. Specifically, strive to turn around the catch on the lower rung and lunge upward in a quarter second (hard, but ideal).
awareness and, undoubtedly, climb harder!
PERFECT MOVES AND ROUTES BEFORE GOING ON: Becoming an outstanding climber comes only by way of a constant resolve to master techniques and long complex sequences to the point of near-perfection.
TECHNIQUE:
1) Precise Foot Placements That Carry Your Weight
2) Grip Handholds "Lightly" and Let Arms Play a Secondary Role
Left Right movement
3) Maintain perfect economy - move like a cat
Quiet feet
Rhythm of movement -
Step, Step, Reach, Reach (focuses on feet) OR
step, reach, step, step, reach, reach OR
step, step, reach, step,reach, reach
Steady momementum - through the crux. You will have to fight inertia if you don't go through it smoothly and fast
Pace
4) Optimize Use of Rest Positions - Rest positions on vertical to overhanging climbs make complete weighting of the feet more difficult and often impossible. While you still want to place as much weight as possible on the footholds, a significant amount of weight will remain on your arms. In this case it's absolutely vital that you hang with straight arms, so that the bones are providing the support, not the muscles of the upper arm. Still, your forearm muscles will need to
contract in order to maintain a grip on the handhold. The best strategy then, is to attain a stable stance and alternate shaking out your arms every ten to twenty seconds. This way, both arms take turns resting. At some point, however, hanging out at the rest begins to cost more energy than you can recover--it's at this time that you need to begin climbing toward the next rest spot.
5) Flagging - Remember Emily Harrington's picture - left arm straight out way to the left. Right foot way to the right. Want center of gravity as closest to the right as possible so flag with left foot crossing back over ur right heel.
Try Stemming as well on a right angle wall - left arm and right foot,
switch all the way up
Use Flagging to Enhance Stability
Flagging is the alternative technique for maintaining stability when a left-right hand-foot combination is not possible. Suppose you are attempting to use a right hand and right foot combination to propel upward movement. Upon releasing your left hand to make a reach upward, you will immediately begin to barndoor. This sideways rotation is hard to fight, and often results in a fall. However, a simple flagging of the free leg (in this case the left) significantly improves stability and balance by shifting your center of gravity more directly over the supporting (right) foot and under the supporting (right) hand.
Exploit Mantling (push and pull with hands) and Hand-Foot Matches
Another important technique for ascending difficult "big-move" climbs is the hand-foot match. Let’s consider the most common scenario of needing to mantle with one hand while the other hand is pulling. The pulling hand will usually be positioned above your head while the mantling hand will contact a hold somewhere near your torso. Depending on the size of the hold to be mantled, you may be able to press your entire palm onto the hold or, possibly, just your fingertips. The left-right combination of pushing and pulling hands provides great stability, so you will be able to upgrade one or, possibly, both feet. Quite often you’ll need to match a foot to the handhold on which you are mantling. Regardless, the mantle is complete when you are able to weight your feet, gain balance, and upgrade your hand from the mantle.
6) Clever Use of Opposing Forces
More difficult climbs tend to be more devious, so you’ll need to consider all the other possible arm positions—side pull, undercling, and Gaston—and figure out how to match one of these with an opposing foot placement.
Side-Pull Arm and Outside Edge of Opposite Foot
Side-pulling hands are a staple move on almost every moderate to advanced climb. While this move is a bit less intuitive than down pulling, you will quickly gain comfort in its use. Most important is the foot position you select to oppose the side-pulling hand. In most cases it’s best to use the outside edge of the opposing foot, not the inside edge. Doing this may feel awkward at first, but you’ll find a natural sense of stability once you learn to appropriately set your hips over the outside-edging foot. The key is to concentrate on rotating your hips so that the hip opposite the pulling hand is turned into the wall—that is, your face and chest will rotate toward the side
pulling hand. This very stable position will allow you to step up your free (nonopposing) leg and quite possibly your free (nonopposing) hand as well.
Gaston and Inside Edge of Opposite Foot
The Gaston (aka reverse side pull) is the most unnatural and weak arm position for beginners, yet it’s a fairly common move needed to unlock many crux sequences. Use of the Gaston is best opposed by the inside edge of the opposite foot. Combining a Gaston with an outside-edging
foot is strenuous but doable if absolutely needed. Practice this move in a variety of ways to gain comfort and strength in its use. As with all these advanced moves, the bouldering area is the ideal proving ground to experiment with and learn the skills.
Undercling and Inside or Outside Edge of Opposite Foot
Often overlooked by beginner-level climbers, undercling hand positions are actually quite easy to perform. What’s more, an underclinging hand helps maximize your reach with the free hand, and it positions your arm and body in a naturally strong position. Therefore, the undercling
is a move you want to practice and put to frequent use.
Side-Pulling Left and Right Hands
Use of opposing handholds is a key move for unlocking a sequence that lacks any usable down-pull or undercling handholds. Most common are two opposing side pulls that you’ll draw inward to create tension through your arms, shoulders, and upper body. While you will be unable to create much upward movement, this opposition will allow you to upgrade one or both feet. Ideally, you’ll want to upgrade the foot that opposes the better of the two side pulls, so that it sets up a stable left-right combination. This will enable you to release the other side-pulling hand so as to upgrade it to the next hold.
Opposing Gaston holds
Though strenuous, you may occasionally need to grab two Gastons at or just above head-height and pull outward in order to support your weight while upgrading a foot position. This is a most advanced move that requires a high level of base strength. A word of caution, however: Using a Gaston hold on an overhanging wall places great force on the shoulder joint and in rare cases can cause injury. Proceed carefully.
7) TWIST LOCK and BACK STEP on Overhang
Initially limit your practice of the twist lock and backstep to boulder problems that overhangs about 20 degrees past vertical. As you acquire skill, expand use onto even steeper boulder problems as well as onto overhanging toprope climbs.
Use of the twist lock and backstep together helps draw your body in toward the surface of the overhanging wall. This changes the force vector on the handholds, making them feel more positive and secure. More important, this drawing-in of the body places more weight onto the footholds. However, proper execution of these moves requires practice and a significant amount of strength through the core muscles of the torso.
The twist lock is typically used to ease the upgrading of a hand on an overhanging section of wall. For example, consider the situation in which your right hand is on a good hold and you’d like to reach up high with the left hand. While you could attempt this movestraight-on—chest facing toward the wall in a neutral position—it’s far less strenuous to turn your left hip to the wall before making the reach upward (see photo). Proper positioning of the feet is critical for making this move work. Since the left hip is turning to the wall, you’ll need to use the outside edge of your left foot on a hold somewhere below or in back of your body (hence the term “backstep”).
Usually you’ll find a complementary right foothold to help maintain the twist-lock body position. The feet then press in unison while the right arm pulls down and in toward your torso, creating the twist lock. Finding just the right body position is the key to providing a secure twist lock; when you do you’ll notice that a surprising lack of effort is needed to reach up and acquire the next left handhold. This amazingly efficient locomotion over steep terrain is the magic of the
twist-lock technique.
8) Heel Hooking
Your primary use of heel hooks will come when turning the lip of a roof, topping out on a boulder problem, or copping a quick shakeout while on steep stone. In these cases, you’ll likely have your hands on holds at or above head level and intend to place one of your heels on a hold off to the side near shoulder level. Which heel you choose to hook with depends on two factors: the availability of a decent-sized hold on which to place your heel, and the location of the next
handhold that you hope to acquire. This next reach up is best made with the hand on the same side as the heel hook. So if it looks like the next attainable hold is set up for the right hand, it would be best to use a right heel hook. Once set, pull with the heel hook as if it were an extra arm. Often it helps to think about pulling your heel toward your rear end; this will maximize use of the leg muscles and help shift your center of gravity toward the heel hook. Meanwhile, the
other foot should inside-edge or smear on the wall to help contribute to the upward motion. As you gain elevation, make a quick reach to the next handhold and then switch your heel hook into a standard step-down foot placement.
Toe Hooking
Toe hooking is a foot move used mostly in pulling overhangs or in navigating roofs. This technique involves simply hooking as much of the toe and top (laces) portion of your shoe as possible on a large protruding hold. Sometimes you will toe hook onto a hold with a bent leg, and then straighten that leg as your hands move out the roof. Ideally you’ll have one foot toe hooking while the other foot pushes off a nearby hold. This opposing push-pull combination enhances the foot purchase on the holds and lowers the chance your feet will come swinging off the roof (a common problem). Strive to keep your arms and legs in the straight position as much as possible so that your body weight is being supported more by bone than by muscles. Done properly, you can navigate a surprisingly large roof with the limiting factor being forearm endurance. Experiment with this foot technique in the bouldering area and you’ll gradually gain skill and confidence in climbing with your back to the ground!
Knee Locks
Knee locks are a boon on overhanging walls and roofs with large protruding holds—that is, if you know the technique and can find a position to exploit this “thank-god” move. Consider a severely
overhanging indoor climb with no obvious rest positions. Chances are the forerunner has positioned two holds in just the right way so that you can place your toe on one hold and then lock your knee against a larger opposing hold. Such a knee lock can provide surprising purchase
and it will often allow you to drop one hand at a time to shake out and chalk up. When climbing outdoors you will occasionally come upon a knee lock that’s so solid you’ll be able to cop a rare, no-hands inverted rest! Keep your eyes open for a downward-facing block (with an opposing toe hold) or a knee-width crack or oblong pocket--miss such a knee-lock and you've missed perhaps the most important hold of the climb!
ONE ARM LUNGES:
This entry-level reactive-training exercise is just dynamic enough to stimulate fast-twitch muscle fibers and develop contact strength. As a feet-on exercise, however, it's much less stressful on the joints and tendon than Campus training. Use this exercise two a week for several months before graduating to the various campus-training exercises to be covered in upcoming articles. Here's how to perform One-Arm Lunging (also known as One-Arm Deadpoint).
1. Select a section of indoor wall that overhangs anywhere from 5 to 25 degrees past vertical—the steeper the wall, the more difficult the exercise—and possesses numerous medium-size hand- and footholds.Ideally, you can set a few modular holds specifically for one-arm deadpoint training. Set two footholds about a foot off the ground, and then set two nontweaky medium-size handholds, one in front of your face and the other about 2 feet above that.
2. Climb onto the wall and balance your weight evenly on the two footholds. Grip the hold in front of your face with one hand, then let go with the other hand and hold it behind your back.
3. Begin lunging up and down between the two handholds. Optimal technique is to draw your body toward the wall and lunge up to the top hold, doing so all in one smooth motion. This drawing-in of the body facilitates a quick grab at the next hold while upward momentum briefly reduces your load—this is commonly called a deadpoint move. Upon catching the top handhold, immediately drop back down to the bottom hold and, without pause, explode back up to the top hold. Avoid catching the bottom hold with a straight arm--maintaining a slight bend in the elbow limits stress on the elbow and shoulder.
4. Continue lunging up and down for eight to twelve total hand movements, then step down off the wall.
5. After a brief rest, step back up on the wall and perform a set of one-arm deadpoints with your other hand.
6. Perform two or three total sets with each hand.
CAMPUS LOCKOFFS
1. Begin by hanging with both hands from a low rung on the board.
2. Pull up forcefully with both hands, then in a fast, continuous motion, lunge up with one hand to grab the highest rung possible (usually the third or fourth rung, depending on the spacing).
3. Engage the high rung for an instant, and then drop back down to the starting hold and lower to the starting (hanging) position.
4. Immediately pull back up and lunge with the opposite hand to grab a high rung.
5. Again, engage the high rung for a moment before dropping down to the starting hold and lowering to your starting position.
6. Continue in this alternating fashion for up to twelve total touches (six per hand).
7. Rest for three to five minutes before performing another set. Do two to four sets.
# Training tip: You can make this exercise harder by touching, but not grabbing on to, the high hold at the top of each lunge. Try to hold the lock-off and touch for two seconds.
CAMPUS LADDERING
1. Hang with nearly straight arms from the bottom rung of the campus board. Your hands should be about shoulder width or slightly less apart.
2. Striving for brisk, fluid motion, begin laddering hand-over-hand up the campus board using alternating rungs for your left and right hands. Your goal is to ascend the board as quickly as possible.
3. Match hands on the top rung, and then descend carefully by dropping hand by hand down alternating rungs to the bottom position.
4. Perform a total of six to twelve hand moves, never more. To increase difficulty, skip rungs as you hand-over-hand up the board.
5. Rest for three to five minutes, before engaging in a second set.
6. Limit yourself to a total of three sets during your formative workouts. As you gain conditioning, you can do up to ten sets or begin a gradual shift to training with the Double Dynos.
Training tip: Laddering on small rungs tends to train contact (finger) strength more than upper-body power, whereas longer reaches on larger rungs better isolates one-arm power and lock-off strength.
CAMPUS TRAINING DOUBLE DYNOS
1. Begin by hanging from the third or fourth rung on the Campus Board. (It’s good to number your rungs beginning with the bottom rung as “number one.”)
2. Simultaneously let go with both hands and drop to catch the next lower rung (number two).
3. Immediately explode upward with both hands to catch the third or fourth (harder) rung. This is one full repetition, but don't stop!
4. Without hesitation, drop down and again catch the second rung.
5. Explode back up to the third or fourth rung.
6. Continue this double-handed, drop-down-and-explode-up sequence between two rungs for up to six repetitions. Stop prematurely instead of risking a failed downward catch—have a bouldering crash pad in place just in case.
7. Rest for three to five minutes before engaging in a second set.
8. Perform a total of just two or three sets during your formative workouts; however, you can build up to six sets (a combined total of Campus Laddering and Double Dynos) as you gain conditioning and confidence.
9. Limit yourself to just one or two sessions per week, and cycle on and off campus training every two or three weeks.
# Training tip: Execute Double Dynos only on rungs that are 0.75 inch or more in depth. In terms of training stimulus, speed of repetitions is more important than the number of reps, distance traveled, or size of rungs. Specifically, strive to turn around the catch on the lower rung and lunge upward in a quarter second (hard, but ideal).
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Catechism of the Catholic Church
Catechism of the Catholic Church
1) The Creed - What the Church believes
2) The Sacraments - What the Church celebrates
3) The Commandments - What the Church lives
4) The Lords Prayer - What the Church prays
27 The desire for God is written in the human heart, because man is created by God and for God< and God never ceases to draw man to himself. Only in God will he find the truth and happiness he never stops searching:
The dignity of man rests above all on the fact that he is called to communion with God. This invitation to converse with God is addressed to man as soon as he comes into being. For if man exists, it is because God has created him through love, and through love continues to hold him in existence. He cannot live fully according to truth unless he freely acknowledges that love and entrusts himself to his creator. Page 17
31 Created in God's image and called to know and love him, the person who seeks God discovers certain ways of coming to know him. These are also called proofs for the existence of God, not in the sense of proofs in the natural sciences, but rather in the sense of "converging and convincing arguments" which allow us to attain certainty about the truth. DK's note: These words are wiser than the author gives himself credit for because it IS in the natural sciences that everything also needs to come into agreement and proofs that he exists. Actually it is the only way to internalize it without faith.
32 [i like this one] --> The world: starting from movement, becoming, contingency, and the world's order and beauty, one can come to a knowledge of God as the origin and the end of the universe.
As St. Paul says of the Gentiles: (Rom 1:19 - 20) For what can be known about God is plain to them, because God has shown it to them. Ever since the creation of the world his invisible nature, namely, his eternal power and deity, has been clearly perceived in the things that have been made.
And St. Augustine issues this challenge: Question the beauty of the earth, question the beauty of the sea, question the beauty of the air distending and diffusing itself, question the beauty of the sky... question all these realties. All respond: "See, we are beautiful". Their beauty is a profession. These beauties are subject to change. Who made them if not the Beautiful One who is not subject to change?
33 [my life summed up in a nutshell] The Human person: with his openness to truth and beauty, his sense of moral goodness, his freedom and the voice of his conscience, with his longings for the infinite and for happiness, man questions himself about God's existence. In all this he discerns sings of his spiritual soul. The soul, the "seed of eternity we bear in ourselves, irreducible to the merely material," can have its origin only in God.
34
35
36 reason
37 Reason and original sin
What was the original Apostles Creed?
41 for from the greatness and beauty of created things comes a corresponding perception of their Creator. Wis 13:5
42 adaptation
43 The exercise of what are things that decay. what is everything that does not decay. take this passage in the catechism literally not figuratively.
45 beautiful
51 not necessarily. Read Elaine Pagals' Beyond Belief and the end result of the Thomas followers vs. the John followers.
52 Perhaps true but through enlightened being not necessarily bc he was God in the flesh. God in the flesh is a contradiction in terms. Jesus aged. He never shouldve aged if he was truly divine. OR was he only divine when he conquered sin but just a man before that???
53 see 51
54
56 to 58 - Einstein is not incorporated into this teaching where it would be very appropriate.
59 - covenant to Abraham is actually fact. probably one of the most interesting topics of discussion.
62 - revelation to Moses of the Law - not necessarily. He couldve just done it out of frustration
64 - the female figures of the bible. great reference
65 - depending on if u believe the disciples got it right. Difficult to accept because they got it wrong the entire time he was alive.
66 - contradiction to Madjugorie
67 - ditto to 66
74 see 51
78 disagree on Tradition
80 disagree
82 disagree
83 agree with the first part of this.
86 gives possible credibility if at all to 78 to 82
90 I doubt that is scriptural. This sounds like man came up with their own hierarchical structure.
91 this may have been symbolic; the anointing could possibly be a continues state of the present, which God can only exist in. Who is to say who is blessed by the Holy Spirit? how do they confirm who is or not?
93 completely agree with this statement.
94 The sacred Scripture grows with the one who reads them.
97 This stifles progress. Similar to moral law and scientific discoveries.
100 This is such a ridiculous notion. This should be up to each and every individual to monitor the merits of truth and if they are right according to their own independent logic and observation.
106 Is it not a little unfair that he chose to reveal himself to some and not others. Predestination or free will question.
109 / 110 Totally believe this, but its relative and adapts. Religion needs to be inclusive and explanatory of all things in the entire universe instead of exclusive and anything that it can not explain is classified as being satanic. But don't necessarily think we didn't make a mistake along the way in interpreting which books were actually truth or not. Like John vs Thomas debate or the epistles by Paul being accepted as truth verbatim.
112 Dogmatic Christians totally lose sight of this. This is great! Unity of the entire message.
116 / 117 - literal, spiritual, allegorical, moral, anagogical
120 - great reference to where Ruth, Tobit, Judith, 1 and 2 Maccabees, Wisdom, Baruch
123 - Latter part of this statement is too close minded and potentially offensive to Judaism. Religion should not be Exclusive it should inclusive of everything.
133 - Absolutely agree with the statement that ignorance of scripture is ignorance of Christ.
135 - takes this too literally. In fact this is likely a false statement just using the arguments of pure logic.
136
between 184 and 185 is the Apostles and Nicene Creed. great reference as the source and direct comparison of the text vs. text.
The sacred female. The cycle of the moon. We all start in water. union of man and female is only way new life is created. Similarly new life is only created when there is a union of God and his Church. The church being the bride of Christ. The 10 bridge grooms and 10 ladies in waiting 5 with oil and 5 without the oil. Oil again being in liquid form. Water also resembles the holy spirit. For some reason Caulo thinks that water represents the female on earth. The blessed Virgin Mary and God give the immaculate conception. Perhaps there is truth to this. Evidence of Mary's miracle not dying. She was supposed to live.
concept of celibacy gives no medium of release for priests, so naturally there is overstepping of boundaries and abuse of power.
the killing of Galileo
the suffrage of women
the period before the Renaissance movement
1) The Creed - What the Church believes
2) The Sacraments - What the Church celebrates
3) The Commandments - What the Church lives
4) The Lords Prayer - What the Church prays
27 The desire for God is written in the human heart, because man is created by God and for God< and God never ceases to draw man to himself. Only in God will he find the truth and happiness he never stops searching:
The dignity of man rests above all on the fact that he is called to communion with God. This invitation to converse with God is addressed to man as soon as he comes into being. For if man exists, it is because God has created him through love, and through love continues to hold him in existence. He cannot live fully according to truth unless he freely acknowledges that love and entrusts himself to his creator. Page 17
31 Created in God's image and called to know and love him, the person who seeks God discovers certain ways of coming to know him. These are also called proofs for the existence of God, not in the sense of proofs in the natural sciences, but rather in the sense of "converging and convincing arguments" which allow us to attain certainty about the truth. DK's note: These words are wiser than the author gives himself credit for because it IS in the natural sciences that everything also needs to come into agreement and proofs that he exists. Actually it is the only way to internalize it without faith.
32 [i like this one] --> The world: starting from movement, becoming, contingency, and the world's order and beauty, one can come to a knowledge of God as the origin and the end of the universe.
As St. Paul says of the Gentiles: (Rom 1:19 - 20) For what can be known about God is plain to them, because God has shown it to them. Ever since the creation of the world his invisible nature, namely, his eternal power and deity, has been clearly perceived in the things that have been made.
And St. Augustine issues this challenge: Question the beauty of the earth, question the beauty of the sea, question the beauty of the air distending and diffusing itself, question the beauty of the sky... question all these realties. All respond: "See, we are beautiful". Their beauty is a profession. These beauties are subject to change. Who made them if not the Beautiful One who is not subject to change?
33 [my life summed up in a nutshell] The Human person: with his openness to truth and beauty, his sense of moral goodness, his freedom and the voice of his conscience, with his longings for the infinite and for happiness, man questions himself about God's existence. In all this he discerns sings of his spiritual soul. The soul, the "seed of eternity we bear in ourselves, irreducible to the merely material," can have its origin only in God.
34
35
36 reason
37 Reason and original sin
What was the original Apostles Creed?
41 for from the greatness and beauty of created things comes a corresponding perception of their Creator. Wis 13:5
42 adaptation
43 The exercise of what are things that decay. what is everything that does not decay. take this passage in the catechism literally not figuratively.
45 beautiful
51 not necessarily. Read Elaine Pagals' Beyond Belief and the end result of the Thomas followers vs. the John followers.
52 Perhaps true but through enlightened being not necessarily bc he was God in the flesh. God in the flesh is a contradiction in terms. Jesus aged. He never shouldve aged if he was truly divine. OR was he only divine when he conquered sin but just a man before that???
53 see 51
54
56 to 58 - Einstein is not incorporated into this teaching where it would be very appropriate.
59 - covenant to Abraham is actually fact. probably one of the most interesting topics of discussion.
62 - revelation to Moses of the Law - not necessarily. He couldve just done it out of frustration
64 - the female figures of the bible. great reference
65 - depending on if u believe the disciples got it right. Difficult to accept because they got it wrong the entire time he was alive.
66 - contradiction to Madjugorie
67 - ditto to 66
74 see 51
78 disagree on Tradition
80 disagree
82 disagree
83 agree with the first part of this.
86 gives possible credibility if at all to 78 to 82
90 I doubt that is scriptural. This sounds like man came up with their own hierarchical structure.
91 this may have been symbolic; the anointing could possibly be a continues state of the present, which God can only exist in. Who is to say who is blessed by the Holy Spirit? how do they confirm who is or not?
93 completely agree with this statement.
94 The sacred Scripture grows with the one who reads them.
97 This stifles progress. Similar to moral law and scientific discoveries.
100 This is such a ridiculous notion. This should be up to each and every individual to monitor the merits of truth and if they are right according to their own independent logic and observation.
106 Is it not a little unfair that he chose to reveal himself to some and not others. Predestination or free will question.
109 / 110 Totally believe this, but its relative and adapts. Religion needs to be inclusive and explanatory of all things in the entire universe instead of exclusive and anything that it can not explain is classified as being satanic. But don't necessarily think we didn't make a mistake along the way in interpreting which books were actually truth or not. Like John vs Thomas debate or the epistles by Paul being accepted as truth verbatim.
112 Dogmatic Christians totally lose sight of this. This is great! Unity of the entire message.
116 / 117 - literal, spiritual, allegorical, moral, anagogical
120 - great reference to where Ruth, Tobit, Judith, 1 and 2 Maccabees, Wisdom, Baruch
123 - Latter part of this statement is too close minded and potentially offensive to Judaism. Religion should not be Exclusive it should inclusive of everything.
133 - Absolutely agree with the statement that ignorance of scripture is ignorance of Christ.
135 - takes this too literally. In fact this is likely a false statement just using the arguments of pure logic.
136
between 184 and 185 is the Apostles and Nicene Creed. great reference as the source and direct comparison of the text vs. text.
The sacred female. The cycle of the moon. We all start in water. union of man and female is only way new life is created. Similarly new life is only created when there is a union of God and his Church. The church being the bride of Christ. The 10 bridge grooms and 10 ladies in waiting 5 with oil and 5 without the oil. Oil again being in liquid form. Water also resembles the holy spirit. For some reason Caulo thinks that water represents the female on earth. The blessed Virgin Mary and God give the immaculate conception. Perhaps there is truth to this. Evidence of Mary's miracle not dying. She was supposed to live.
concept of celibacy gives no medium of release for priests, so naturally there is overstepping of boundaries and abuse of power.
the killing of Galileo
the suffrage of women
the period before the Renaissance movement
Friday, October 23, 2009
Hypatia
A great example of how historical texts can manipulate an event and call it divine. Hypatia of all females that I've ever read about, heard about, or met in my life is the most virtuous.
Socrates Scholasticus (5th Century) - Christian Historian
Yet even she fell a victim to the political jealousy which at that time prevailed. For as she had frequent interviews with Orestes, it was calumniously reported among the Christian populace, that it was she who prevented Orestes from being reconciled to the bishop. Some of them therefore, hurried away by a fierce and bigoted zeal, whose ringleader was a reader named Peter, waylaid her returning home, and dragging her from her carriage, they took her to the church called Caesareum, where they completely stripped her, and then murdered her by scraping her skin off with tiles and bits of shell. After tearing her body in pieces, they took her mangled limbs to a place called Cinaron, and there burnt them.
John of Nikiû (7th-century) - an Egyptian Bishop
And in those days there appeared in Alexandria a female philosopher, a pagan named Hypatia, and she was devoted at all times to magic, astrolabes and instruments of music, and she beguiled many people through Satanic wiles...A multitude of believers in God arose under the guidance of Peter the magistrate...and they proceeded to seek for the pagan woman who had beguiled the people of the city and the prefect through her enchantments. And when they learnt the place where she was, they proceeded to her and found her...they dragged her along till they brought her to the great church, named Caesarion. Now this was in the days of the fast. And they tore off her clothing and dragged her...through the streets of the city till she died. And they carried her to a place named Cinaron, and they burned her body with fire.
Edward Gibbon (18th-century) - English historian (wrote Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire)
A rumor was spread among the Christians, that the daughter of Theon was the only obstacle to the reconciliation of the prefect and the archbishop; and that obstacle was speedily removed. On a fatal day, in the holy season of Lent, Hypatia was torn from her chariot, stripped naked, dragged to the church, and inhumanly butchered by the hands of Peter the Reader and a troop of savage and merciless fanatics: her flesh was scraped from her bones with sharp oyster-shells and her quivering limbs were delivered to the flames.
Socrates Scholasticus (5th Century) - Christian Historian
Yet even she fell a victim to the political jealousy which at that time prevailed. For as she had frequent interviews with Orestes, it was calumniously reported among the Christian populace, that it was she who prevented Orestes from being reconciled to the bishop. Some of them therefore, hurried away by a fierce and bigoted zeal, whose ringleader was a reader named Peter, waylaid her returning home, and dragging her from her carriage, they took her to the church called Caesareum, where they completely stripped her, and then murdered her by scraping her skin off with tiles and bits of shell. After tearing her body in pieces, they took her mangled limbs to a place called Cinaron, and there burnt them.
John of Nikiû (7th-century) - an Egyptian Bishop
And in those days there appeared in Alexandria a female philosopher, a pagan named Hypatia, and she was devoted at all times to magic, astrolabes and instruments of music, and she beguiled many people through Satanic wiles...A multitude of believers in God arose under the guidance of Peter the magistrate...and they proceeded to seek for the pagan woman who had beguiled the people of the city and the prefect through her enchantments. And when they learnt the place where she was, they proceeded to her and found her...they dragged her along till they brought her to the great church, named Caesarion. Now this was in the days of the fast. And they tore off her clothing and dragged her...through the streets of the city till she died. And they carried her to a place named Cinaron, and they burned her body with fire.
Edward Gibbon (18th-century) - English historian (wrote Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire)
A rumor was spread among the Christians, that the daughter of Theon was the only obstacle to the reconciliation of the prefect and the archbishop; and that obstacle was speedily removed. On a fatal day, in the holy season of Lent, Hypatia was torn from her chariot, stripped naked, dragged to the church, and inhumanly butchered by the hands of Peter the Reader and a troop of savage and merciless fanatics: her flesh was scraped from her bones with sharp oyster-shells and her quivering limbs were delivered to the flames.
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