Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Wed - Easy Street #2 - Yamnuska

Met SL at 9:45 am in the morning at the usual meeting place. Hadn't climbed with him in over 2 weeks since i was at the Shushwap for 10 days. He ended up doing 4 days of the 6 of the ACC course and had mentioned that it was a comprehensive and well worth it. We arrived at the parking lot of Yam around 10:45 am. After sorting out the gear we put our harnesses on and then headed up the climber's trail a little after 11:00 am. We arrived at the top a little after 1 pm but unfortunately S dropped his helmet so he had to hit the scree run and then re-ascend. In the mean time i was looking for the start of Easy Street because i couldn't exactly remember what the start had looked like.

When i finally found it, it is good to note that there is a single piton (not 2) at the start. On pitch 1 i was having troubles staying confident on my feet and I think i took too long placing the gear. That was definitely the crux for me. Pitch 2, i lead but found there was rope drag after the only bolt on the climb if you clipped in to the piton that is right after it. Route finding was relatively straightforward for the first 2 pitches. On the 3rd pitch i went a little off route and because it seemed too run out i decided to ascend straight up towards the left of King's Chimney instead of traverse too far left as there was no visible places to stick gear in to. The top of the 3rd pitch there was a piton and 2 rap rings which we found out was the top of the 4th pitch of King's Chimney. S looked over the ledge when he got up and saw 2 bolts and we realized that that was the top of the 3rd pitch of Easy Street. So the topo was a little misleading in the route to take.
S lead the 4 pitch and was his first trad climb. He also lead the 5th and 6th pitches. 6th pitch was a walk off the BBQ. I finally know how to do it. Once you turn the corner keep traversing until you can step down about 4 feet. Then keep traversing until you reach the back side of Yam.
We finished the climb at 9 pm and took us about an hour to descend from there. Got back to the car around 10 pm.

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