NUGARA Scrambles - Potentially Easy for Winter RESEARCH

WATERTON LAKES
Mount Anderson
Spionkop Ridge
Avion Ridge
Lost Mountain
Bauerman, Mount
Festubert Mountain
Vimy Ridge

EAST CASTLE
Victoria Ridge
Loaf Mountain

WEST CASTLE
Table Mountain
St. Eloi Mountain
Gravelstafel Ridge

CATARACT CREEK AND HIGHWOOD
Muir, Mountain
Strachan Mount

ELBOW VALLEY
TIara Peak - DONE
Bryant, Mount (2 routes - easy one)
Howard, Mount


EAST KANANASKIS / HIGHWAY 40
Wasootch Peak
Old Baldy Mountain
Wendell Mountain

WEST KANANASKIS / HIGHWAY 742
Kent Ridge - North Summit
Snow Peak

KANE Scrambles - Potentially Easy for Winter RESEARCH

Alan Kane:

WATERTON
Bertha Peak
Carthew, Mount
Alderson, Mount
Lineham, Mount

CROWSNEST PASS
Turtle Mountain
Ward, Mount
Window Mountain

CANMORE AND BOW VALLEY
East of End of Rundle (DONE)
A, W - Grotto Mountain
A, W - Yamnuska, Mount (DONE)
***Middle Sister
Ha Ling Peak (DONE)

SMITH DORRIEN AREA
Mount Sparrowhawk
The Fortress (DONE)
*** Gusty Peak

ELBOW / KANANASIS VALLEY
Banded Peak (NOT WINTER)
Mount Kidd South Peak (avalanche path in winter)
Grizzly Peak

KANANASKIS LAKES AREA
***Mount Sarrail
Warrior Mountain
Mount Cordonnier
A,W - Indefatigable, Mount (S peak)

BANFF
A,W - Rundle, Mount
A,W - Cory, Mount
W, - Bourgeau Mountain
A, - Castle Mountain
A - Helena Ridge
Television Peak

LAKE LOUISE AREA
A,W - St. Piran, Mount
*** - Fairview, Mount
A,W - Panorama Ridge
Tower of Babel

SKOKI
Skoki Mountain
W - Fossil Mountain
*** Brachiopod Mountain
*** Anthozoan Mountain

FIELD AND LITTLE YOHO VALLEY
Burgess, Mount
Field, Mount
***Paget Peak
Kerr, Mount
Pollinger, Mount


ICEFIELDS PARKWAY
Cirque Peak
Observation Peak
Tangle Ridge
Sunwapta Peak

JASPER AREA
Cinquefoil Mountain
Indian Ridge
Pyramid Mountain

Ice Climbing Checklist

Hot handz
Hot toes

BD Mitts
Leather gloves
Base layer gloves

Lunch
1 litre metal water bottle
750 insulated water bottle
500 ml Thermos
1 litre thermos
Snacks for drive home
Gas money
Plastic bag for boots

Dry Rope
Crampons
Boots (Plastic bag)
ice Tools
Harness (4 draws)
ice screws
Belay Device

Guide Book

Avalanche info

Under Resources:
Go to Videos
http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/training/resources/videos

Weather forecasts
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/

Ice climbing conditions and forum:
http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/

Summits in 2010

Tantalus
Dionne
Serratus

The Fortress
Cascades

Holy Cross
Windtower
Red Ridge
Exshaw Ridge
Lorette x2
Mt. Kidd failed
Tiara Peak
Belmore Browne
Mt. Burke
Commonwealth Peak
Grizzly Peak

X Country ski list

Wax (3 + cork)
Skis
boots
poles
Toque
gloves
Water
Snacks for car ride home
Snacks for trail
Lunch
Map
GPS
extra batteries for gps

Winter scrambles

Little Mcdougall (Volcano Peak)
Little Bertha
Little Lougheed
King Creek Ridge
Commonwealth Ridge - DONE
Windtower - DONE
Red Ridge - DONE
Grizzly Peak (Vern) Jan - DONE
Mount Gordon (Vern) Jan
Opal Ridge North (Vern) Feb
Pigeon Mountain (Vern) Feb
Twin Cairns (Vern) Dec
Wasootch Peak (Vern) Jan
Grant MacEwan (Vern) Jan
Heart Mountain (Vern) Jan
Burstall Pass Peak Jan
Crystal Ridge traverse
Rummel Ridge
Midnight Peak (with alternative Ridge down)
Turtle Mountain
Grotto
Limestone
East Peak of Wendell
Robertson and Tallon
Thunder (south on highway 22)
Baldy
Mt. Collembola
Raspberry Ridge
Gunnery Mountain
Hailstone Butte
Sentinel PEak
Windy Peak to Livingstone (to Coffin) traverse
Cirque Peak
Fossil Mountain


Easy Snowshoeing
Crystal Ridge (Claud)
Chester Lake
Fairview Mountain
Pocaterra Tarn
Saddle mountain Windy peak

Easy Hikes
Sulphur Mountain

Mountain Biking
Jumpingpound Mountain

X country ski links

Map for Bragg creek
http://www.tpr.alberta.ca/parks/kananaskis/pdfs/2007_maps/Bragg_Creek_XC_Trails_Map.pdf

Trail report for K country (also has external links to maps and other resources)
http://www.tpr.alberta.ca/parks/kananaskis/trailreport.aspx


http://trails.braggcreek.ca/ski.htm

http://kananaskisblog.com/

Scrambling Checklist

Check:
http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/forecast/trends_graph_e.html?wnr&unit=m
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/parksfx/caab0629
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/caab0177
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/skifx/caab0635
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/skifx/caab0635

ice axe
helmet
hiking poles
balaclava
toque
gloves (base and outer)
Black diamond mitts
2 hot handz
Snow shoes
Gore tex jacket
Gore tex pants
Fleece pants
Long underwear top / bottom
Gaiters
Boots
Down Jacket
Map+ plastic bag
GPS
Sunglasses
Sun screen
Headlamp
Extra Batteries
Guidebook (scrambles and More scrambles)
Plastic bag for wet boots
Lunch / Snacks
Lunch insulator
Water bottle
Water insulator
Extra water after trip (1 Litre thermos)
Extra food after trip (chips, granola bar)
First aid kit
Whistle
Compass
walkie talkies

Summer:
Bear Spray
pack cover for rain

Back packing:
Rain Jacket
Stove / fuel
Dehydrated food
water purification tablets
mosquito repellent

X Country COC trip ideas

WEST BRAGG CREEK
Plan is to do Iron Springs starting at the West Bragg Creek parking lot.

Trail Head: West Bragg Creek
Event Duration: 2.5 Hours
Difficulty Rating: D3: Moderate
Distance: ~ 20 km
Elevation: negligible

Directions: Take Hwy 22 south to Bragg Creek. Just before the 4-way stop in Bragg Creek turn right (Balsam Ave). Take this street for ~500meters to a T-intersection and then turn left (onto Centre Ave). Take this road (which turns into township road 232) for 10km until you reach the West Bragg Creek trail head. The parking lot will be on the right hand (North) side of the road.

WEST BRAGG CREEK
- We'll ski the Moose Loop around the West Bragg Creek area:
Distance: 10-15 km.
Elevation: negligible
Time: 2-3 hours
Moderate
Directions: Take Hwy 22 south to Bragg Creek. Just before the 4-way stop in Bragg Creek turn right (Balsam Ave). Take this street for ~500meters to a T-intersection and then turn left (onto Centre Ave). Take this road (which turns into township road 232) for 10km until you reach the West Bragg Creek trail head. The parking lot will be on the right hand (North) side of the road.

ELK PASS / BLUEBERRY HILL (15-20 kms)
- total distance: approx. 15-20km.
- pace: moderate
- The end of the Blueberry Hill trail gives a wonderful view of the Kananaskis Lakes and surrounding mountains.
- From the Elk Pass parking lot we will follow the Elk Pass Trail to the Blueberry Hill Trail and follow the Blueberry Hill Trail to the end. We will have our lunch break here and enjoy the view. After lunch we will ski back to the Elk Pass Trail and then decide as a group which route we would like to take back to the Elk Pass parking lot. This trip will be all on groomed trails. the total distance will be approx. 15-20km.
- Directions: Follow Hwy 1 west out of town to the junction with Hwy 40. Head south on Hwy 40 for approx 56km. At the winter gate turn right onto Kananaskis Lakes Trail and follow it to the Elk Pass parking lot.


RIBBON CREEK XC SKI
- ski approximately 25 km in and around Ribbon Creek (at a pace of 8-9km/h). This event is for STRONG Intermediate to Advanced Skiers who can ski at a QUICK pace.
- The actual trails to be skied will be determined towards the end of the week once the most recent trail report is released.
- The coordinator has not skied these trails before so there may be some route-finding delays.
- Directions: From Hwy 1, turn south on Hwy 40 to the Nakiska and Kananaskis Village turnoff. Turn west on the paved road signed for Kananaskis Village and Ribbon Creek. Immediately cross a bridge over Kananaskis River. At 0.8 km turn left. At 1 km turn right. Pass the youth hostel, then a covered picnic shelter, both on the right. At 1.6 km reach Ribbon Creek Day Use Area trailhead parking lot. Continue to the far west end.

RIBBON CREEK NOVICE- INTERMEDIATE XC SKI (SLOWER PACED)
- We will ski approximately 10 km on green and blue trails in the Ribbon Creek area at a slower pace (5-6 km/h). This event is best suited to confident novice / intermediate skiers, or easy-going (slow and patient!) advanced skiers. Skiers should be proficient at navigating by the trail signs, and comfortable regulating their speed / steering by snowplowing on moderate hills. If there is a large difference in speed amongst the skiers, we may break up into different speed groups.
- We will leave our cars at the Ribbon Creek parking lot, and ski the 2.5 km to Kananaskis Village via the Evan-Thomas Trail. We will have lunch at the Village (you may pack your own, or purchase it at the cafe) before heading out and skiing the 7.5 km back to Ribbon Creek via the Kovach, Aspen, Link and Ribbon Creek Trails.
- At the time of posting, all trails are listed as being groomed, trackset(except the bike path portion of the Evan-Thomas) and are considered to be in fair condition, with occasional thin patches, drifts and windblown debris (pinecones/twigs etc.) on the trail.
- Directions: From Hwy 1, turn south on Hwy 40 to the Nakiska and Kananaskis Village turnoff. Turn west on the paved road signed for Kananaskis Village and Ribbon Creek. Immediately cross a bridge over Kananaskis River. At 0.8 km turn left. At 1 km turn right. Pass the youth hostel, then a covered picnic shelter, both on the right. At 1.6 km reach Ribbon Creek Day Use Area trailhead parking lot. Continue to the far west end.


GREAT DIVIDE TRAIL
- This event will be dependant on snow conditions. Currently there is bare pavement in Lake Louise but there is up to 30 cms of snow in the forecast for this week. Great divide is not usually as busy as Moraine Lake Road, which can get very busy at the beginning of the season.
- Great Divide trail is usually trackset with a skating lane and although the trail is easy, it is long and we will be keeping a good pace (6 to 7 km/hr) with few breaks, so this event is best suited for experienced intermediate skiers - no beginners or slow skiers please.
- I expect most of the group will do classic skiing but this is one of the few trails that has a skating lane, so skaters are welcome.
- We will ski from Lake Louise to the Lake O'Hara parking lot. We will take a short break at the end of the trail for snacks and return the same way. Distance is ~ 22km round trip with 30 meters elevation.
- Directions: Take Hwy 1 to the Lake Louise turnoff. Turn left, across the highway overpass and follow the signs to the Chateau Lake Louise. Approximately half way up the hill from the townsite to Lake Louise, turn right to the Great Divide parking lot (the Moraine Lake parking lot is just a bit further on the left side of the road).


MORAINE LAKE ROAD
- The trail is relatively easy but we will be keeping a quick pace, so this event is best suited for intermediate to advanced skiers no beginners or slow skiers please.
- The trail climbs gradually with some flat and some gently rolling stretches. It ends at a viewpoint where the road curves and begins to make its way up to the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Beyond this viewpoint, the road crosses large avalanche paths.
- We will for a short lunch break at the turn around point, and then return the same way. Distance is approximately 16km round trip with 250 meters elevation.
- Directions: Take Hwy 1 to the Lake Louise turnoff. Turn left, across the highway overpass and follow the signs to the Chateau Lake Louise. Approximately half way up the hill from the townsite to Lake Louise, turn left to the Moraine Lake Road parking lot.

POCATERRA
- We will ski approximately 8-12 km loop the from Pocaterra Hut down the trail to Lynx, then either down the Amos- Wheeler loop to Meadow or the shorter Amos-Meadow loop. After the ski we will re-group for to lunch at the Pocaterra hut. I would like to try and have a little potluck on our return to the hut so please bring something to share with the rest of the group.
- This trip is best suited for beginner and novice skiers. If there is a big difference in the speed of the skiers, we will break off into groups according to pace, but meet up for lunch at the hut after the ski. Everyone should be comfortable reading the trail maps found on the PLPP trails and orienting themselves.
- Directions: Take Highway 1 west from Calgary, then Highway 40 south all the way to the winter gate. Turn right at the winter gate onto Kananaskis Lakes Trail. Not far up the road, on the left, you will see the Pocaterra area. Meet inside the hut.

START AT BOULTON CREEK
- Going to enjoy some of my favourite trails in K-Country! This trip is for intermediate skiers who are comfortable with steep hills and several hundred meters of elevation gain. We'll be skiing at a goal pace of 6-7km/hr.
- Goal is to follow the Whiskey Jack/Tyrwhitt/Elk Pass route, then back along Elk Pass/Fox Creek/Moraine trails. Exact trails are TBD depending on snow conditions.
- Directions: Follow Hwy 1 west out of town to the junction with Hwy 40. Head south on Hwy 40 for approx 56km. At the winter gate turn right onto Kananaskis Lakes Trail until you see the Boulton Creek Trading Post sign. Turn left and park in the upper lot where the X-country trails begin
- Terrain Classification: This event is exempted from avalanche planning because it is a groomed xc ski trail.

X Country Skiing for beginners (posting 1)

The first place to go is Mountain Equipment Co-op to buy some indispensable books and maps:

Books:
Kananaskis Country Ski Trails by Gillean Daffern
Ski Trails in the Canadian Rockies by Chic Scott

Gem-Trek Maps: (these maps will give you a general overview of the area and indicate the roads you need to take. They also show the trails, but not in great detail.)

Kananaskis Lakes – will show you the Peter Lougheed Prov Park(PLPP) trails
Canmore and Kananaskis Village – will show you the Ribbon Creek and Kananaskis Village trails
Bragg Creek and Elbow Falls – will show you the West Bragg Creek ski trails
The first time you go:

Head west on Hwy #1 to Hwy 40 and turn south(this is the Stoney-Nakoda Casino corner). A few K down Hwy 40, you’ll come to the Barrier Lake Visitor Centre. Stop here and buy some more maps(I think they’re about $1 or $2 each).

Ribbon Creek Cross-Country Ski Trails
Peter Lougheed Prov Park Cross-Country Ski Trails
West Bragg Creek Cross-Country Ski Trails
Beginner Trails

Kananaskis Village-Ribbon Creek and PLPP

If you’re heading south on Hwy #40, the first ski area you will arrive at is the Kananaskis Village – Ribbon Creek trails. The best trails for beginners are Ribbon Creek(accessed at the Ribbon Creek parking lot), and Terrace trail which starts at the village(that was the first trail I ever skied on).

If you drive further south on Hwy #40, you will come to Peter Lougheed Prov Park. Some of the easier trails here would be Pocaterra(accessed at the Pocaterra Hut), Wheeler(accessed at Elkwood Amphitheatre). A kittle-known trail that is the absolute perfect beginner’s trail is Spruce Road and the William Watson Lodge trails(accessed from Elkwood Amphitheatre or William Watson Lodge).

Canmore Nordic Centre

The Banff Trail is wide and rated easy. The initial 3K of this trail is usually man-made snow, so it’s very hard. Maybe not the nicest snow to fall down in. They will also have a multi-lane practice grid beside the Daylodge. You’ll have to pay a $7.50 trail fee to ski at CNC.

West Bragg Creek

I’m not sure if I would recommend these trails for a beginner. If Mountain Road was trackset, it’s pretty easy but very short.

Other Suggestions:

Wait until the trails are trackset as it means there will most likely be good snow cover. Check the Trail Reports for Kananaskis. You don’t want to ski on trails with any hazards as a beginner. The Pocaterra Hut usually has a five lane practice grid that’s good for a beginner. Take a spare pair of gloves in your back pack. Don’t go too far the first time as you want to make sure your new boots don’t give you blisters. If they do, at least it won’t be so far to return. Take blister bandages as a precaution.

Rose was also correct in suggesting the PLPP Visitor Centre as a place for buying the additional detailed maps. Be aware, however, that PLPP Visitor Centre is not open on Tues and Wed.

Bushisms

we are fighting evil, and we will continue to fight evil, and we will not stop until we defeat evil.

We’re also fighting a war overseas, with the purpose of hunting down the evildoers and bringing them to justice. And I’m patient and I’m focused, and I will not yield. We must win.

We are at the beginning of what I view as a very long struggle against evil. We’re not fighting a nation; we’re not fighting a religion; we’re fighting evil. And we have no choice but to prevail.

We’re fighting evil. We don’t fight a religion; we fight evil people.

Americans must know that their government is doing everything we can to track down every rumor, every hint, every possible evildoer.

You see, the evildoers like to hit and then they try to hide. And slowly, but surely, we’re going to make sure they have no place to hide. Slowly, but surely, we’re going to move them out of their holes and what they think is safe havens, and get them on the move.

This is good versus evil. These are evildoers. They have no justification for their actions. There’s no religious justification, there’s no political justification. The only motivation is evil.

My administration has a job to do and we’re going to do it. We will rid the world of the evil-doers.

up to Sept 16th

Thurs, Sept 16th - Register for Ball Hockey, Get lantern from Azi, Clean up rest of boat, remember to pack a pillow.

Wed, Sep 15th - Talked with S in the morning and postponed trip for WCT due to bad rain forecast. Decided to wait it out until weather improves and cancel beginning Squamish portion. If rain continues then we'll head south. Packed for trip to Van, deposited bottles, worked out at whc (35 min on eliptical, 15 min of lifting and 30 min ab exercise), watched and returned Legion, still need to get used water bottle, purchased spade shovel, bought winter tires x 2, refunded fishing net, refunded mybook, bought walkie talkies

Tue, Sep 14th - Drove C for inteview in the NE, dropped off C at work, Kaggeh for some last minute groceries, picked up C from fish creek, J started swimming lessons, picked up 3 cups of Tea, Ball Hockey

Mon, Sep 13th - woke up at A's place in Killarney, had breakfast at Phil's and help her move remaining items out of Montana and into her Audi. Ang had to go back to Edmonton so he left at 330 pm; so we went to go grab the boat and park it in the Sunalta garage. Had to use cups and sponge to bail out all the water in the boat.

Sun, Sep 12th - Met with A and O at the Killarney house to pick up the boat. Had to go to Walmart to pick up lunch and then we were got to the Glenmore boat launch at 10:45 am. We were in the boat and packed and ready to float at 11:15 to 11:30 am. We got to fish creek by 2:30 pm and Policeman's by 5:30 pm. Got to Mckinnon in the dark at 9:10 pm. Lucky that we saw another truck pulling out a boat in the dark otherwise we would've missed it. Headed back and then saw the American. Worst movie in the history of mankind.

Sat, Sep 11th - Cancelled my scramble in the morning with the COC, ended up going to the London condos to check them out with C and A. C went to get her hair done so ate with A at Viet on 17th and 10th st. We ended up helping her move out of the montana and back into Killarney. Day ended late.

Fri Sep 10th - C picked up a free coffee at Cafe Creme then went to the library and read a bunch of 1984 then bought the rest of hockey gear at shawnessy sport chek.

Wed Sept 8th - drove to the NSD and played ball hockey. Registered for Ice Hockey beginner season and bought skates. Had a beer with one of the original organizers of the NCHL.

Melville quote

An utterly fearless man is a far more dangerous comrade than a coward.
—— Moby-Dick by Herman Melville

Thoreau quote

Rather than love, than money, than faith, then fame, than fairness, give me truth

Lord Byron quote

There is a pleasure in the pathless woods
There is a rapture on the lonely shore
There is a society, where none intrudes
By the deep sea, and music in its roar
I love not man the less, but Nature more....

Week of Aug 23rd to Aug 29th

Mon, Aug 23rd - Fortress Summit or with Christian
Tue, Aug 24th - Climbing with SL
Wed, Aug 25th - REST
Thur, Aug 26th - Mt. Indefatigueable or Ball hockey
Fri, Aug 27th - Mt. Temple with CL coworkers
Sat Aug 28th - Fireworks competition at night (start of H)
Sun Aug 29th - Rock climbing for beginners - cancelled due to H
Mon Aug 30th - Ball Hockey - cancelled due to H

Aug 16th to 22nd

Mon, Aug 16th - Climbed at Wasootch with SL 3 trad routes and anchor building

Tue, Aug 17th - Were supposed to attempt Temple but highway shutdown and went to Cascades instead with Tom, David and Eelco

** Wed, Aug 18th - Uploaded pics in the morning, went to World Health and bought boots for CL, played ball hockey in the evening, watched Taking of Pelham 123

Thu, Aug 19th - delivered tickets; practiced Tennis, Pizza Hut, watched State of Play, walked bark in Stanley Park

Fri, Aug 20th - Tennis with Cory, Fireworks at night

Sat, Aug 21st - Fish Highwood with DK and CL

Sun, Aug 22nd - Cleaned apt, southcentre for hockey gloves, wmt for groceries since J will be staying more permanently

August 9th to 15th

Mon - Aug 9th - J stayed over and we woke up later; ate at BPs, dropped her off after the park; headed to Kun omma's to help move some furniture; checked out the auction; bought some AT boots; CL hurt her ankle; rented Premonition and the new Matt Damon movie on video.
Tue - Aug 10th - drove CL to work at 1030 am; went to kaggeh with B; H and kids came to kaggeh; went to the auction with J.
Wed - Aug 11th - ramien for lunch; uploaded pics for Tantalus; world health workout in the evening
Thur - Ball hockey in the evening
Fri - scramble for Fullerton cancelled; transferred pics and uploaded more.
Sat - Alpine route with SL - completed South east ridge on Lorette; ate a pizza; watched some of Green Zone
Sun - Hike in Bragg Creek with C and B

Jul 26th to 30th

26th, Mon - sobeys breakfast, cleaned pantry, packed for trip, 4pm nap, 5:45 to 8:45 world health (jenn's class, revs, 15 elliptical, 15 of rowing, 20 of lifting)

27th, Tue - picked up racket at store, Tennis with C; switched hiking pole

28th, Wed -picked up stuff at store; Tennis with C @ 2pm; worked out at world health for an hour; checked out courts in Woodbine.

29th, Thu - climbing with S in the Ghost. Did the STD wall 5.8, 5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10a (S, D, S, D). popped a tire on the way back.

30th, Fri - leaving for Squamish

Week Mon Jul 19th to 25th

Mon - Met with C at 8:30 am was supposed to be at the Sobeys but he saw me at my truck and just picked me up there. headed out to the 22x and got to the trail head around 10:30 ish. We started unloading and then were on the trail by 10:45 am. Sunny and cloudy with the forecast in the morning being for rain and thundershowers. The view from Calgary looking west in the morning was blue skies which is why we decided to go for it. Rained when we reached the first bridge. Then hailed when we reached the top (approx half way). Then on our way down almost froze to death. Luckily i brought long jons and my black track pants and my fleece to warm me up. Note to self to bring gloves next time that wrap around the entire hand that are water resistant. Also need to pick up some new sunglasses that cover the eyes for biking.

Tues - cnbc, world health (macleod - 35 min), seoul restaurant, movie (A Team)
Wed - Fished at Oldman River at the texas gate; caught 2 nymping but could not land them; caught a very small 3 inch brookie- solo
Thurs - Climbing with S at the U of C; trad climbing, anchors and ascending; final with sg
Fri - Free Golf at Silver Wing @ 9:30 am with DC; dinner for DC and N @ 7pm
Sat / Sun - possibly go to Old Man and camp there to fly fish. 'A' coming down from Edm.

Fri - cnbc, world health

- watched cnbc until the close
- headed to world health for 2.5 hours

Thurs - stampede, movie

- 3 pm parked at ymca - signed out BV rock
- 5:0o pm - super dogs
- 7:30 pm - ice show (elvis stojko, cdn couple who won gold)
- 9 pm - movie on tv (17 again)

Wed - Easy Street #2 - Yamnuska

Met SL at 9:45 am in the morning at the usual meeting place. Hadn't climbed with him in over 2 weeks since i was at the Shushwap for 10 days. He ended up doing 4 days of the 6 of the ACC course and had mentioned that it was a comprehensive and well worth it. We arrived at the parking lot of Yam around 10:45 am. After sorting out the gear we put our harnesses on and then headed up the climber's trail a little after 11:00 am. We arrived at the top a little after 1 pm but unfortunately S dropped his helmet so he had to hit the scree run and then re-ascend. In the mean time i was looking for the start of Easy Street because i couldn't exactly remember what the start had looked like.

When i finally found it, it is good to note that there is a single piton (not 2) at the start. On pitch 1 i was having troubles staying confident on my feet and I think i took too long placing the gear. That was definitely the crux for me. Pitch 2, i lead but found there was rope drag after the only bolt on the climb if you clipped in to the piton that is right after it. Route finding was relatively straightforward for the first 2 pitches. On the 3rd pitch i went a little off route and because it seemed too run out i decided to ascend straight up towards the left of King's Chimney instead of traverse too far left as there was no visible places to stick gear in to. The top of the 3rd pitch there was a piton and 2 rap rings which we found out was the top of the 4th pitch of King's Chimney. S looked over the ledge when he got up and saw 2 bolts and we realized that that was the top of the 3rd pitch of Easy Street. So the topo was a little misleading in the route to take.
S lead the 4 pitch and was his first trad climb. He also lead the 5th and 6th pitches. 6th pitch was a walk off the BBQ. I finally know how to do it. Once you turn the corner keep traversing until you can step down about 4 feet. Then keep traversing until you reach the back side of Yam.
We finished the climb at 9 pm and took us about an hour to descend from there. Got back to the car around 10 pm.

Tuesday - World Health, Confed, Crux

Worked out for 1.5 hours in the morning before met D for lunch at Saigon Y2K for 130 pm and then the driving range at Confed until 430pm.

Met A for some climbing at the Crux until 9 pm. Then headed home. C had dinner with C who was in town for just a week.

Monday - back in the gym

Worked out at World Health
45 min elliptical
25 min lifting
25 min abs

Missed all the classes that day because had to head towards the stampede to meet C for the Grand Stand show. Was definitely impressed by the show as i had never seen it before.

Young Canadians
Motorcycles
Cdn Idol star
Michael Jackson tribute
Cirque du Soleil -ish type of finish
Fireworks

Sunday - Dog walk, Movie

30 min - picked up Barkley from Dog hotel.
1.5 hours - Walked Barkley at the Riverside Dog Park with T and M.
2 hours - Watched Brooklyn's Finest with C.

Copper play

EQN.TO

- Russia may add Canadian and Aussie dollar to its reserve currencies
- UBS predicted that the IMF will include the Canadian dollar in its reserve currencies as well

European companies with less European exposure; global companies.
CUK, TEVA, NVO, FMS

- Very large companies will be able to borrow 100 bp below
- FDIC can cover creditors costs up to 100%

Market Call: Global Equities
GE does not recommend as they do not have a lot of free cash flow; GE capital has attributed to a downgrade in the company
X? - look at those who are providing iron ore as they will be making the price instead of being price takers. Rarely does the dividend go up over time. Very risky. BHP Billoton provides iron ore and are therefore price setters. They are the quintessential commodities stock if you have one stock.
Banco Santender; STD;

Cameco. CCO - long life reserves; decent price; diversified in Uranium; copper, dividend likely safe. Decent price if you have a 3 to 5 year play.

TEF; 8.4% down 40% year to date; more than 40% are outside of Europe.
TIH; Toromont Industries; equipment company
BHP; long term hold; a lot of cash on the books;

Double dip?

- Fed programs on incentives (housing and appliances) will decrease retail numbers
- European problems
- Upside down mortgages people can't walk away (Fannie and Freddie punishing people)
- Baltic Dry Index off its high. 2547 today. Good interm leading indicator.
- Probably new highs on the unemployment rate.
- K Fine is bullish on retailers (best buy). Other guest is not as Bed Bath and Beyond was off and Nike was off.

-TU (Telus; 5% div yield)
- Defensive: PM (5%) div yield, VZ (7% div yield), TOT (6.5% div yield),
- FD, TOL, Loews,
- ADBE might have been oversold
-

George Carlin - best quote

You know what's interesting about assassination? Well, not only does it change those popularity polls in a big fucking hurry, but it's also interesting to notice who it is we assassinate. Ya ever notice who it is, got to think who it is we kill? It's always people who've told us to live together in harmony and try to love one another. Jesus, Gandhi, Lincoln, John Kennedy, Bobby Kennedy, Martin Luther King, Medgar Evers, Malcolm X, John Lennon – they all said, "Try to live together peacefully." Bam! Right in the fucking head! Apparently we're not ready for that. Yeah, that's difficult behavior for us. We're too busy thinking around, sitting around trying to think up ways to kill each other.

Stocks

NLY (REIT accidentally high yield) - Cramer

AAPL - Cramer
XOM - me
TOT - me
NAE - market call
CN RAIL
AGU
POT
TRP (4.5%) - increased div yield
CNQ (looking for entry point) - levered to oil more than gas; investing more on oil sands. Not really bullish on gas; ramping up horizon oil sands. get in at $35 perhaps.

SNC?? -
CGX.UN - concession spending up; 80% margin; 3D markets encourages concession spending. 50% payout ratio.

Market Call (Dean Orrico)

Market overview: Natural gas (contrarion view) he thinks it will go much higher; supply is so high though what is the catalyst? the headlines say there is a ton of gas; he doesn't think so as 13% of gas comes from shale; half of that in the Barnett Shale. Industrial activity much higher today than a year ago. He thinks EIA has overstated.

Drilling offshore costs will explode. Canada has second highest reserve level in the world. Onshore oil should be a great play relatively speaking.

Current top picks:
Nuvesta Energy (natural gas 28,000 boe/d 75% nat gas; at least half of that in the deep basin; good growth in production. Just announced divident; could increase the dividend. Mgmt owns 10% of the company

ARC Energy Trust - 55% gas today; acquiring Storm Energy. One of the first players in the Motney Shale formation. Convert to Corporation.

Bonavista; 7.8% are increasing their gas exposure. mgmt owns 15%; production growth should be very large.

Last top picks
Cdn Oil Sands Trust; oil weighted

Bonterra; oil weighted

6 to 12 months; $8 gas is the forecast for him. (spot was $5 at the time.)

Call ins :
Penn-West; Chinese are spending $300 million and getting 45% of the production; PennWest is getting 55% and not spending a penny. CIC can eventually may take over 100% in the future. INterest from China is growing by the day. Athabasca oil sands. Cutting distribution in half for dividends. So not a good income investment.

Boralex Power Income Fund - not keen on the power section bc very difficult to have accretive acquisitions. hydro assets are great. biomass of business has a lot of risk; biomass feedstock is down because of economy. Trustholders not really in a good situation.

NAL - owns it; mid tier mid quailty trust; partnership with Manulife. Bit of a lift is exposure to Cardium oil play; horizontal and multi fracking play; probably over bought on that. Long term a great play. 2011 probably a modest cut. Maybe 10 to 20% cut post conversion.

Connacher Oil and Gas - Maybe a takeover target? heavy oil play; don't play it. but production is ramping up in the next 12 months. Long life exposure to oil go somewhere else for now. wait and see if they can grow to 20,000 barrels/d. Asia capital will likely not flow here.

Bird Construction - floating around 30 dollars. Don't really own it. smaller cap with exposure to a cyclical industry. A major player out west and well positioned to take advantge of it. but priced into the stock already. Not much upside in the trading place. Short positions come in at 31.00. upside is limited. not an income and growth. but income ok.

Daylight Resources - competitive distribution around the $10. Stock should perform pretty well. Exposure in the Cardium play. mainly gas with some oil exposure. maybe $15 target price.

180 billion proven oil reserves in the alberta oil sands; Suncor and Syncrude has majority of it.

AOS - octagon capital has it as a 60 cent target. tough play because capex intensive

Mullen Group - logistics player in this space for the Oil Sands. Haven't acquired any competitors. Oil field services company in Alberta and for the Oil sands. Good buy 3 to 4% income. 12.5 cents per share. Cyclical. Tends to rise in the fall and winter on a multi-year chart.

Technology stocks in Canada

RIM; he is bullish 11x P/E and 25% growth. so starting to become pretty cheap.
June 24th results from RIM

IDL - 5 cents; Imaging Dynamics; used to be a market darling; they need to increase sales; almost no information on the stock at this point.

ZED - 53 cents; not a lot of analytic insight; 65 and 75 cent target price

AAH - Aastra technologies; extremely lumpy; down 70% year over year; 65 cents are expected in earnings; 8x P/E; cheap; EPS all over the place.

CSCO - new product upgrade underway; cap ex spent on salesforce; new products on routing and switching; range bound trading; don't own yet

BCE - on the income portfolio; eps up 12% year over year. coming over 24% year on eps. no new market entrants. Neutral; things are improving. Income investor is a reasonable investment; growth not really there.


Top Picks
Net Debt = zero
ZL; Zarlink ; turning the business around; core business growing well; FCF 25 cents per share for last 4 quarters; 10x PE for march 2011; growth on medical side of business. Zarlink thinks it can double in the next 12 months. 30% growth. target is reasonable.

DSA (Dalsa); BMO is keen on Dalsa; provides chip to Nintendo; could estimate 20% upside to current estimate; 22% 1.13 to 2011. Having got out of camera company for the movie company

Wilan; they hold patents and license them out. broad array of patents. Bluetooth. 12 cents for 2010; almost to 23 cents to 2011.

Canadian REITs for 6/18/2010

KMP Killam Properties - likely to 9 dollars; good name; very good job; expanded into Ontario. Concern that they are buying apartments in London and Waterloo too expensive; but they think CMAC debt which is cheap; dividend is safe. Using windmills for power; safe long term investment; holds it personally and professionally. 6.5% yield

AX-UN.TO - Artis REIT; trying to expand; diminish the effect to the Calgary exposure. Still fighting the payout ratio. Little above what they are earning. Yield is very high. Almost 10% probably dangerous; they do own it. Something similar; Dundee has a high yield; similar scenario and a 100% payout ratio; bright mgmt; decent gamble.

H&R REIT; very flat; is there a chance that they will sell the Bow Valley project? No, they won't sell it; they made a big mistake; costs are under control; long term very profitable bond. 4% yield; they will increase from 50% to 70 to 80% on the payout ratio and will gradually increase it over time. Very low debt; very low payout ratio. When EnCana building is finished; refinance and is not a threat right now.

Past picks:

Cominar REIT

Stocks on the radar

STD - accidental high yielder; lots of restructuring.
S - good buy opp


MWE - 8% yield (midstream play)
TOT - 6% yield
XOM trading near Mar 09 lows
GE - 3% div yield; traded 40s before collapse; stuck in 15 to 16 range
WFT - 4% exposure to GOM
CRUS - chips in ipads, ipods, iphones
GS - cheap?? wait for Fin Reg
C - strangle; sell covered call; sell put at a price u r comfortable buying it at. Perfect for a dead market
Manulife - stick this in a tax free savings account; high dividend yield; discount to BV
AGU - downgraded because of lower potash prices
POT - upgraded.
DAY - daylight energy; 6% yield. Cardium exposure 2100/d
Trilogy - Gas weighted; 4.6% yield; 60% owned by Klay Riddell
NAE.UN (NAL) ; well capatilized; great land position; 9.9% yield (prolly under $10 good buy); fall of 2010 it converts from a divindend paying trust to a dividend paying corporation and may change the div yield at that point. Probably best to wait after the restructuring.
BNK - Bankers Petroleum - huge upside in foreign investment; leveraged to oil.

The Pledge of the only True Saint of our time....

Time.... as he states is the only thing that you can not take back. It is the only true non-renewable resource for every living thing in this universe. The overall encompassing truth for all human beings that have ever existed is that everyone is born and everyone eventually dies. We cannot rewrite our own history. The pen is alive only at the present moment. You can only write your destiny now. If you've lived through your teenage years you can never take them back and relive them. If you're done with your twenties you can not take them back and rewrite them. If you are living through your thirties, every second you live you can not take back. So every second of existence then can be viewed as a gift. Since the first breath of life was not given to us by our own choice. There was no merit involved there, as life in all living things was a gift of something that we can not see. Even though we think we can plan for the future, we can not. Because the future is uncertain to us ....

...If every rich person that ever lived made up one compound of steel, and when all compounds added all up took the shape of a needle, it would came to pass that there would come into existence, a certain camel born in the dry wasteland of human moral emptiness that would eventually pass through the eye of this needle. ...

Who would ever begin to understand the greatness of your goodness? .... as who has ever in the history of humanity became one of the richest men to have ever lived and then gave all that wealth away back to humanity before he passed and not even thinking he has done a good deed? It is a blessing to live through the tail end of your existence and realize that there actually exists true goodness in a human being. Your existence in and of itself has given and continues to give hope to mine....


My Philanthropic Pledge
Warren Buffett



In 2006, I made a commitment to gradually give all of my Berkshire Hathaway stock to
philanthropic foundations. I couldn't be happier with that decision.
Now, Bill and Melinda Gates and I are asking hundreds of rich Americans to pledge at least 50%
of their wealth to charity. So I think it is fitting that I reiterate my intentions and explain the
thinking that lies behind them.
First, my pledge: More than 99% of my wealth will go to philanthropy during my lifetime or at
death. Measured by dollars, this commitment is large. In a comparative sense, though, many
individuals give more to others every day.
Millions of people who regularly contribute to churches, schools, and other organizations thereby
relinquish the use of funds that would otherwise benefit their own families. The dollars these
people drop into a collection plate or give to United Way mean forgone movies, dinners out, or
other personal pleasures. In contrast, my family and I will give up nothing we need or want by
fulfilling this 99% pledge.
Moreover, this pledge does not leave me contributing the most precious asset, which is time.
Many people, including -- I'm proud to say -- my three children, give extensively of their own
time and talents to help others. Gifts of this kind often prove far more valuable than money. A
struggling child, befriended and nurtured by a caring mentor, receives a gift whose value far
exceeds what can be bestowed by a check. My sister, Doris, extends significant person-to-person
help daily. I've done little of this.
What I can do, however, is to take a pile of Berkshire Hathaway stock certificates -- "claim
checks" that when converted to cash can command far-ranging resources -- and commit them to
benefit others who, through the luck of the draw, have received the short straws in life. To date
about 20% of my shares have been distributed (including shares given by my late wife, Susan
Buffett). I will continue to annually distribute about 4% of the shares I retain. At the latest, the
proceeds from all of my Berkshire shares will be expended for philanthropic purposes by 10
years after my estate is settled. Nothing will go to endowments; I want the money spent on
current needs.
This pledge will leave my lifestyle untouched and that of my children as well. They have already
received significant sums for their personal use and will receive more in the future. They live
comfortable and productive lives. And I will continue to live in a manner that gives me
everything that I could possibly want in life.

Some material things make my life more enjoyable; many, however, would not. I like having an
expensive private plane, but owning a half-dozen homes would be a burden. Too often, a vast
collection of possessions ends up possessing its owner. The asset I most value, aside from health,
is interesting, diverse, and long-standing friends.
My wealth has come from a combination of living in America, some lucky genes, and compound
interest. Both my children and I won what I call the ovarian lottery. (For starters, the odds
against my 1930 birth taking place in the U.S. were at least 30 to 1. My being male and white
also removed huge obstacles that a majority of Americans then faced.)
My luck was accentuated by my living in a market system that sometimes produces distorted
results, though overall it serves our country well. I've worked in an economy that rewards
someone who saves the lives of others on a battlefield with a medal, rewards a great teacher with
thank-you notes from parents, but rewards those who can detect the mispricing of securities with
sums reaching into the billions. In short, fate's distribution of long straws is wildly capricious.
The reaction of my family and me to our extraordinary good fortune is not guilt, but rather
gratitude. Were we to use more than 1% of my claim checks on ourselves, neither our happiness
nor our well-being would be enhanced. In contrast, that remaining 99% can have a huge effect on
the health and welfare of others. That reality sets an obvious course for me and my family: Keep
all we can conceivably need and distribute the rest to society, for its needs. My pledge starts us
down that course.

Highest Mountains in Bolivia

• Nevado Sajama (6,542 m)
• Illimani (6,438 m)
• Ancohuma (6,427 m)
• Illampú (6,368 m)
• Parinacota (6,330 m)
• Pomerape (6,240 m)
• Aucanquilcha (6,200 m)
• Chearoco (6,127 m)
  
• Huayna Potosi (6,088 m)
• Chachacomani (6,074 m)
• Pico del Norte (6,070 m)
• Guallatiri (6,060 m)
• Acotango (6,050 m)
• Tacora(5,998 m)
• Mururata (5,868 m)
• Gigante Grande (5,748 m)
• Machu Sochi Conchi (5,679 m)
• Condoriri (5,648 m)

Tips for Slab Climbing from Climbing Magazine

Tech Tip - Technique - HEELS OF STEEL BY FITZ CAHALL

http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/tech_tip_-_technique_-_heels_of_steel/
6 keys to master-class slab climbing CLIMBERS

TYPICALLY FALL INTO TWO CAMPS when it comes to slabs. Some gag at the connotation of meat-grating, nipple-raking falls. But others say friction climbing is our most elegant discipline, a communion of mental grit and technical grace that rewards brains and finesse, not mindless brawn. “I love, love, love slab climbing,” says Beth Rodden, whose slab sends include Yosemite’s Lurking Fear (VI 5.13c; FFA with Tommy Caldwell) and Squamish’s Grand Wall (IV 5.13). “Technical climbing is so engaging. You have to fi gure out ways to stand on your feet and move your body with more than just pure strength . . . maybe it’s also because my arms are so twiggy.” Watching a skilled slab climber waltz up holdless granite is like watching a magic trick — you know a simple method unlocks what should be impossible, but it’s still daunting to dissect how this happens. These six tips, gleaned from the world’s best, will have you calmly padding upward. But first, put on a shirt — your nipples will thank you.

“Butt out. Heels down.”
This mantra reminds you to “assume the position,” drawing your posterior away from the wall to align your center of gravity over your feet. Thus aligned, slightly drop your heels, engaging the ball of your foot and maximizing the shoe-surface-torock ratio. Gravity and rubber will do the rest. Remember those protractors from eighthgrade geometry? Well, neither do I, but think about it like this: your center of gravity (core), which you control with your hips and rump, should align with gravity’s pull. Rock angle shifts a bit; gravity stays constant. So if a slab’s angle lessens, your butt should move away from the stone. If a slab becomes more vertical, you’d likewise pull in your hips. I know — mind-blowing. We just passed eighth-grade geometry.

Don’t Dither Mentally.
“Finding a [mental] rhythm helps a ton,” says Rodden. Lurking Fear’s crux — 130 feet of sustained 5.13 slab divided by a sidewise dyno — necessitated steady, focussed, upward fl ow. “Rhythm not only helps with general movement, but with maintaining head space,” she adds. When holds begin to resemble potato chips or even disappear, our instinct is to get gripped — to tense our muscles, tighten our diaphragms, and slow to a crawl. “There is a huge anxiety associated with slab climbing,” says slab ace Justen Sjong. “It’s best to keep moving.” So save thoughts like ‘How am I attached?’ for the campfire, not the sharp end.

Don’t Dither Physically.
We often divide pitches into sections, viewing rests as islands of safety. Drop this approach with slabs, where your only goal should be the belay. (Say you were in a hurry to get home from work. Sure, you’d pause at red lights, but would you linger at the greens?) Clip the bolt, place a piece, pause briefl y to scan, but when you’ve fi nished your business, move steadily (don’t rush!) and breathe regularly, avoiding the dreaded sweaty palms or sewing-machine leg that comes with stalling. (As you ooze with nervous perspiration, your calves tire, fingers slide, and feet slosh, making that crux even more difficult.)

Your Hands = Feet
Think of your hands as suction cups on the smooth underbelly of fear. Sometimes you’re better off palming the rock than crimping down, which can pull your butt toward the wall. Stick to the mantra. The Scottish hardman Dave MacLeod, who last winter dispatched the 150-foot slab Walk of Life (5.13 or 5.14 R/X, depending on whom you ask), at North Devon, UK, suggests you use your thumbs — not palms — to press down on holds. MacLeod’s tip comes in handy when you’re forced to highstep or hand-foot match. Imagine cocking a revolver — your thumb becomes a hook that holds you in.

Enlarge Don’t Overreach.
As runouts grow, it can be tempting to stretch for handholds. Patience, young grasshopper. By overextending, you bring your center of gravity closer to the wall, decreasing rubber-to-rock contact. Instead, resume “the position,” and then make small, calculated hand and foot movements. Also, avoid undue highstepping — bigger moves lead to herky-jerky movements that destabilize your core, precipitating foot slips. “It’s not like a boulder problem or physical route,” adds Rodden. “You can’t try so hard that you’re violent. Instead, be determined but calm,“ saving the dynamic climbing for boulderers.

Avoid the Pump . . . in Your Calves.
Slab climbing can be a tiring, tedious affair. MacLeod seeks to rest his feet. “When you reach better [foot]holds, rest your feet by standing on your heels,” he says. Look for scoops or rails. If you find a single, big-enough-for-onefoot foothold, you can methodically switch feet, stretching or even shaking out the unweighted appendage like it’s a forearm. To increase his writing stamina, Climbing contributor Fitz Cahall likes to type minimum sets of 5,000 words while wearing wrist weights.

Highest Peaks in Ecuador to Attempt

CHIMBORAZO Elevation 20,703 ft (6,310 m)

Located 93 miles (150 km) south/southwest of Quito, this is the highest peak in Ecuador and the point on the Earth's surface closest to the sun due to the Earth's equatorial bulge.

Chimborazo has five summits, the Whymper 20,703 ft (6,310 m), Veintimilla 20,562 ft (6,267 m), Northern 20,342 ft (6,200 m), Polytechnic 18,045 ft (5,500 m) and Nicolas Martinez 18,045 ft (5,500 m).

The standard routes are the Veintimilla and Whymper routes from the refuge on the western side of the mountains. Only 4 expeditions have reached all 5 summits. Chimborazo is a difficult climb due to its elevation and should only be attempted by climbers with experience. An ice ax, crampons and rope are required. The Hermanos Carrel Refugio is at 15,750 ft (4,800 m) near the end of the road. There are 8 bunk beds with mattresses and 1 private room for 2 cooking facilities, running water, electricity and a toilet.

Summit attempts begin between 12 midnight and 1am. It is 8 - 9 hours from the refugio to the summit and another 4 hours to descend the mountain. The best weather is in December and between June to September.

COTOPAXI Elevation 19,348 ft (5,897 m)

One of the world's most perfectly shaped volcanoes, and the second highest peak in Ecuador. It last erupted in 1877 and it is currently emitting gas. From the summit, all of the other major peaks of Ecuador can be seen. Cotoxpaxi’s Jose-Ribas Refugio offers climbers 30 beds with mattresses, a kitchen and water.

Cotopaxi is one of our most popular climbs a summit attempt begins from the refugio around 1am and takes 5 to 8 hours. It is important to check snow conditions before setting out. An Ice Ax, Rope and Crampons are required.

Wilhelm Reiss and Angel Escobar made the first accent in 1872 on a southwestern face route. Today the standard route climbs Cotopaxi from the north. The best weather is in December and January though there is also very good weather between July and September. Conditions on Cotopaxi allow for year round climbing of the peak.

Cotopaxi National Park is the most popular National Park on the Ecuadorian Mainland. For more information please refer to our Cotopaxi page.

ANTISANA Elevation 18,715 ft (5,704 m)

Due to its position on the edge of the Andes above the Amazon Basin, this rarely climbed peak offers a technical challenge due to its many crevasses and bad weather. The large number of crevasses that opened during the 1997-1998 season has made the main summit route unusable.

Good route finding skills are required. Poor access can make just getting to base camp a challenge. The ascent requires glacier and rock climbing skills and experience with crevasses. Full climbing gear is recommended. The best weather is from December to January. An entry permit is required and can be obtained in Quito.

ALTAR Elevation 17,452 ft (5,319 m)

It doesn't matter where you view it from, this ancient and probably extinct volcano is the most impressive in Ecuador's Andes. The fifth highest, it is the most technical of all the mountains in Ecuador. Known as "Capac Urcu" in Quichua for “Sublime Mountain” it was renamed "Altar" by the Spanish due to the majesty of the mountain.

Hiking up to the crater is a spectacular walk including Andes forests, waterfalls and Collanes Valley. The stunning view from the crater includes Chimborazo in the background. There are 9 summits, which form the highest points on the crater. The normal routes are from the outside. The best weather is from December to May but it is often rainy.

The Variant or Arista del Calvario is the most popular route now. To reach the summit includes a class 4 rock climb, traversing the glacier, and an 80° climb over rock and ice climb, before reaching an ice wall and the last difficult rock section near the summit. From the Italian camp the ascent takes 12 hours depending on conditions. The trail can be very muddy and rubber boots and full climbing gear is recommended.

ILLINIZA SOUTH Elevation 17,268 ft (5263 m)

A technical 4-hour snow and ice climb to challenge even the most experienced climber. The steep snow slopes, crevasses, and the 50-60º ice wall are rewarded at the summit with a spectacular view across the Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi less than 19 miles (30 km) away. Whymper team member’s Jean and Luis Carrel first climbed the peak in 1880. The best weather can be found from June to January. Full climbing gear is needed.

SANGAY Elevation 17,160 ft (5,230 m)

The most photographed of Ecuador's peaks and the most active volcano in the world with activity every 10 minutes. To reach the volcano you first have to hike for 3 days. The climbing itself is pretty straightforward but because of the ever-present risk of an eruption this is the most dangerous peak in Ecuador and helmets are required. The best weather is between December and April.

ILLINIZA NORTH Elevation 17,061 ft (5,200 m)

Twenty years ago this was a glacial peak. In the early accounts of this mountain the climbers describe a technical ascent over heavy glaciers. Today the glaciers have completely disappeared, however in the first half of the year this peak still receives a covering of snow. While this mountain can be summitted in 2-4 hours it is a very long day if you are departing and returning to Quito. It is worth doing this extinct volcano over 2 days, spending a night in the refugio located in the saddle between the 2 peaks at 15,585 ft (4,750 m) The refugio has 12 bunks and cooking facilities and fills quickly.

The attack on Illiniza North's summit at begins at dawn and involves a trek along a knife-edge ridge, on a well-marked trail. In a couple of places it is necessary to leave the ridge to go around boulders, and it is advisable to have some protection including ropes, harness, and hard hats. In the first half of the year there can be a snow covering on the ridge and peak snow gear can be needed, including crampons and ice axe. A compass and map are suggested for the descent.

PICHINCHA Elevation 15,695 ft (4,784 m)

Pichincha Volcano is made up of 3 peaks the 3rd peak Guagua Pichincha 15,695ft (4784m) is the active crater. This volcano stands over Quito and has a long history of eruptions. From the edge of the paramo the hike to the summit takes about 4-hours. To reach the top there is a 7ft (2m) scramble, but no equipment is needed. From the summit we have an excellent view of Quito below us, and the "Avenue of Volcanoes" to the south. Guagua is particularly prone to clouding in and sudden storms.

CORAZON Elevation 15,710 ft (4,700 m)

Climbing this extinct volcano can be a long day from Quito. The climb begins in the inter-Andean valley hiking through fields and pastures at 9,187 ft (2,800 m). As you reach higher elevations the trail passes through the wind blown paramo. The final ascent is a scramble up a large rock band to the summit. It is worth having hard hats, but a rope is usually not needed.

Workout

Absolution
Breathe
30 min of lifting

Workout and Hike

Worked out in the morning on the Eliptical for 40 minutes and then Revs for 45 min.

Met up with A, H and O to hike Nihahi Ridge afterwards. Waited near the Little Elbow River Recreation Area (near forgetmenot pond parking for about 30 minutes). Then headed to the junction where the intersection was and finally met them about 2:30 pm. We started the hike at 3:30 pm and got back to Calgary around 9 pm.

Beautiful Century

Headed up Beautiful Century on Nanny Goat with the ACC on Saturday. Ken organized the trip and had Sera and myself as the participants for the climb. I was definitely lucky to have been able to join as I was near a computer when the notification came up on email.

We met at Lady of Assumption at 7:20 am. I was actually the last to arrive after grabbing a subway sandwich and getting gas; as i woke up 30 minutes early i was able to cook breakfast and do those 2 additional chores before meeting up which is extremely rare for me. Ken and I carpooled as Sera was staying the night in the Bow River Campground for the weekend. We got to the parking area around 8:30 ish and then started the hike towards the base of the climb. When we reached a large rock drainage we realized we missed the turnoff towards Nanny Goat and then started ascending the drainage where we quickly met up with the path that leads to BC. When we arrived we decided that Sera would second and I would take the third. Ken used a system that he learned from Sarah during the Alpine efficiency course where he clips an extra non-locker to a draw the feed the second rope through. (The main leading rope would go to the lower biner and then the second backup rope that would be connected to the 3rd climber would be clipped to the middle biner. I ended up leading pitch 3 which was a 5.7 climb and then the 6th pitch which was a 5.8 climb. They definitely didn't feel like they were rated that since there was a few roofs especially on the 5.8 climb. Essentially consistent to the other ratings i've experienced so far on that wall. Was great that Ken brought his walkie talkies so that we could talk very easily between the parties on top and on the bottom. We kept with the system that the lead had one and the last climber had one. I'll have to pick up a pair from Costco at some point and make sure they are AA.

The first 2 pitches were quite long and definitely the first 2 bolts on the first pitch were the crux of that pitch. The second pitch which was supposed to be the crux of the climb (5.10a) had an awkward start going to the right and then trusting your feet for a friction-y inverted move to a higher hold.
The 3rd pitch which i lead had 6 bolts which required some friction climbing felt more difficult than 5.7 but i managed through it.
The 4th pitch a 5.9, ended up being quite zigzagging.
Pitch 6 was 5.8 but felt like a 5.10. There were 2 roofs but the crux of the pitch was in the beginning of the climb.
Pitch 7 was relatively straight forward. We decided to put the second rope in the pack and tie off the middle to the leader with 2 independent lines going to each climber. The middle tied off using an overhand on a bite followed through both gear loops on the harness and then through the overhand knot tied with another overhand. This was able to be done because the pitch was meters and we were using a 70 meter rope. Would be quicker this way since there's less rope management.
We ended up doing the walkoff instead of rappelling and was the same descent as Kid Goat down the waterfall. Some scrambling down scree. There is a 15 ft downclimb on some easier 5th class slab; which can be done without a rope in dry conditions.
Got back to the car around 8 pm.

Great climb!

Twilight Zone (Kid Goat)

Ian organized a multi-pitch climb on Kid Goat in conjunction with the 2010 Rock Review with the ACC. The weather the day before was raining and the forecast had been 30% chance of precipitation. I met Nicole at the Kananaskis casino at 11:30 am and we car pooled from there to the parking area for Kid Goat. She had the printout of the directions which were in text. When we hit the first gravel road we turned right and then headed too far towards Goat Slabs. Ian called us when we were about 30 minutes down that pathway when he realized that we were on the incorrect path. We turned around when we realized this and then started going back towards the landfill. When we got back we found the correct path only for a while when we took another incorrect path too early which led us to a sport climbing area which was more lower in elevation and west of the actual multipitch climbs on Kid Goat. When we realized this we were both comfortable to scramble to the base towards where Ian was (at the bottom of Grey Waves). We finally met up and then headed towards the Twilight Zone. Since there were a number of climbers on the wall that weekend probably due to the Rock Review, we headed to the climb quite quickly. We decided that i would second and Nicole would follow. This was because it would be easier to give her beta from up above on hand holds that might be available but weren't obvious. The route was all trad and had only a couple of bolts and pitons on the route. Although there were bolted belays for the climb. It took us a few hours to reach the top and only drizzled on us very briefly. Another day of luck when the initial weather forecast was much worse than actually realized. We descended down the Waterfall (gully) between Kid Goat and Nanny goat rather then rap the route.

Bolivia Peaks

http://www.bolivianmountains.com/climbing/illampu.html

ILLAMPU

CHACHACOMANI & CHEAROCO
Altitude: 6,100m & 6,150m
These two peaks are in one of the least visited areas of the Cordillera Real and are the perfect challenge for the ice climber with some experience already under his belt. The routes to the summit have been very rarely tackled, so if you are after a very unique climbing expedition, this is the one for you.

ILLIMANI

JANCOHUMA

CONDORIRI AREA

PARINACOTA & SAJAMA

SAJAMA

HUAYNA POTOSI

PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO

CHARQUINI

Climbs i want to try on Yamnuska

345m - Belfry 5.8+
300m - Bottleneck 5.8
95m - C-Plus 5.7
90m - C-route 5.8
340m - Calgary Route 5.6
295m - Chockstone Corner 5.8+
325m - Direttissima 5.8+
225m - East Face Route 5.4+
260m - Gray Goose 5.7
295m - Grillmairs Chimneys
277m - King's Chimney
270m - Red Shirt 5.8+
189m - The Toe 5.8
150m - Tongue - Right Side 5.6
217m - Unnamed 5.7
210m - Western Union 5.8
260m - Windy Slabs 5.6

First lead on Yamnuska

So finally was able to meetup with Per to climb on Yamnuska. The night before we decided that we were either going to try Easy Street; a 5.6 climb or Grillmair's Chimney; a longer 5.7 climb.

We met at the parking lot at 10:15 am and introduced ourselves. After combining all the trad gear we had we decided to mainly stick with his gear and try Easy Street since this was the first time we were climbing together.

During the approach my legs were still very sore from the prior Saturday when I climbed Holy Cross with Shaun so I actually had to take a number of breaks along the way. Also I was only wearing old sneakers for the approach so scree kept on getting into my shoes. I could tell my bones are slightly aging because my knees were beginning to hurt when i put all my weight on one leg to push up the steep approach. We found out there was one other group that was climbing above us and crossed our fingers that they were doing Windy Slabs so we wouldn't be exposed to rockfall. Lady luck was on our side when we arrived at the base of the climb as the lady that was seconding mentioned they were indeed starting on Windy Slabs. Per lead the first 3 pitches and I lead the last 3 except for the fact that the last pitch I was supposed to traverse sideways (west) off the Bar-b-que ledge but instead proceeded upwards. The last pitch ended up being a 5.8 and because this was my first multi-pitch trad route i felt more comfortable if Per lead the route so we finished on the backside around 5 pm-ish and then continued scrambling up until we were almost at the summit. I ended up taking a few panorama shots at the top. We descended on a path that lead west through the woods and must've had several ticks on us by the time we reached the bottom trail that lead back to the gravel road.

Webcams for Minnewanka and Moose Mountain

Webcam Minnewanka
http://www.explorerockies.com/banff-webcam/

Webcam Moose Mountain
http://www.braggcreek.ca/weather/index.htm

Mountain Biking Forums for Western Canada
http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?s=780e21fd414add8e933cae5578c39c74&f=84

More Books for Multi Pitch Sport Climbs

Bow Valley Rock by Chris Perry and Joe Josephson and Banff Rock by Joe Josephson (both currently out of print) describe the multi-pitch routes from Banff to Kananaskis. Ghost Rock by Joe Josephson, Chris Perry and Andy Genereux describes both the sport and multi-pitch routes of the Ghost River Wilderness area. All of these books are published by Rocky Mountain Books. Barrier Bluffs, the Guide describes the multi-pitch and gear routes at Barrier, as well as all of the sport routes up to the late 80’s.

Mother's Day Buttress supposed to be like a scramble. Great place to try multi pitching.
Gray Waves - 5.8 - Neil had done this last year. Checked out the SC of CR pg 254.
Beautiful Century - Nanny Goat 10a (Sport well bolted; guy in Canmore verdical addiction mentioned)
Morning Side on McGillvary Slabs (guy in Canmore verdical addiction mentioned)
True Grit - 10 C but very well bolted.
Keel Haul - ACC climb on May 2nd, 2009
Cory's Groove 5.9 - 455 meters

Also a list off of Yamnuska Adventures website:

Grillmair Chimneys	Yamnuska	Canmore	10	5.6
Diretissima	Yamnuska	Canmore	8	5.8
N.E. Face Ha Ling	Ha Ling Peak	Canmore	10	5.7
Geriatric	E. end of Rundle	Canmore	8	5.8
True Grit	E. end of Rundle	Canmore	6	5.10b
Keel Haul Wall	Kidgoat Buttress	Canmore	5	5.6
Twilight Zone	Kid goat Buttress	Canmore	4	5.7
Deception	Nanny Goat Buttress	Canmore	8	5.7
Tower of Babel	Moraine Lake	Lake Louise	8	5.9
Gooseberry	Tunnel Mtn.	Banff	8	5.7
Mothers Day	Cascade Mtn.	Banff	10	5.6

Ice Climbs I want to try

List from Barry:

In the Ghost River

-Malignant Mushroom 55 m II, WI 5.
-the Sunshine 45 m II, WI 3/Aquarius 60 m III, WI 4 enchainment.
-Lacy Gibbet 300 m IV, WI 5.
-Anorexia Nervousa 130 m III, WI 4, and Weathering Heights 100 m III, WI4.
-The Candle Stick Maker 140 m IV, WI 5, and the Joker, 50 m III, WI 2-3.
-Wicked Wanda 60 m II, WI 4+.
-This House of Sky 500 m III, WI3-4+.
-Yellow bird 30 m III, WI 4, Seagull 30 m III, WI 4, and the Eagle 35 m III, WI 5.
-The Good, The Bad and The Ugly 45 m II, WI 4-5+.
-The Sorcerer 210 m IV, WI 5.
-Hydrophobia 150 m V, WI 5+.

In the Kananaskis Country

-Amadeus 55 m III, WI 4+ of M5.
-Chantilly Falls 100 m II, WI 2.
-Moonlight Falls 110 m III, WI 4.
-Snowline 110 m III, WI 4.
-A Bridge Too Far 300 m IV, WI 4+.
-Kidd Falls 55 m IV, WI 4.
-Sinatra Falls 350 m III, WI 2.
-King Creek 15 - 60 m II, WI 2-3.
-Whiteman Falls 95 m IV, WI 6.
-Red Man Soars 55 m IV, 5.10, WI 4+.
-Parallel Falls 150 m IV, WI 4.
-R & D 50 m III, WI 4+.
-Lone Ranger 120 m IV, WI 3.
-The Chalice and The Blade 70 m IV, WI 5.

In the Canmore Area

-Heart Creek Falls 45 m II, WI 2-3.
-Arterial Spurt 150 m III, WI 3.
-Twisted Sister 300 m IV, 5.7, WI 4.
-The Junkyard 20-60 m I, WI 2-3.
-His 15 m III, WI 4-5, Hers 15 m II, WI 3-4, and Grotto Falls 55m II, WI 3.
-Coire Dubh 250 m II, WI 3, and the Integral 550m III, 5.5-5.8, WI 3.

My own list:
Polar Circus, V, WI 5
Professors
Weeping Wall
Curtain Call
Johnston Canyon
Spray River Falls

Bubble rap blues
Guinness Stout
Ghost - The Sorcerer
Coal Miner's Daughter
Louise Falls
Spray River Falls
Carlsberg Column

LIST OF ADVENTURE BOOKS

The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev.
K2 — The Savage Mountain by Charles Houston
Over the Edge
Savage Summit
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain
Dark Shadows Falling
Touching the Void
The Beckoning Silence
Annapurna

BETA on Professor Falls

http://www.climbwild.net/RP_The_Professor_Falls.html

The Professor Falls - Overview

Mt. Rundle has one of the greatest collections of varying ice routes in the world. With hard core routes such as Sea of Vapours, The Terminator, The Replicant, (all over 150 m in length and graded at V WI 6+ to WI 7) and a group of more moderates such as The Professor Falls, Shampoo Planet, Welcome to Canada, La Goutte, (all graded around IV WI 4 to WI 5 and in varying lengths between 190 m to 650 m) this area cannot be beaten when combined with the easy approaches, vertical relief and fat ice on many of them. Some of the spectacular routes in this range do not always form completely and can be very thin or even absent in low-snow years, leading to the saying espoused by hard core climbers that "it doesn't always have to be formed to be formed." Other harder routes in the area are Postscriptum,The Whipper Traverse, Sam Goes Trekking, and Sacre Bleu. (all graded around IV WI 5)

The Professor Falls was named after the eccentric pioneer Calgary mountaineer and ice climber, Professor Eckhard Grassman, who took a fall when he made the first ascent of the route. This line is located in the shaded side of Mt. Rundle and has a constant supply of meltoff from above to keep the route formed. It is usually one of the first routes to form, danger from above after winter storms, and several large avalanches have been reported to reach the Bow River from the area above the route. Parties have been buried by avalanches at the bottom of the route.

ACCESS
Get yourself to Banff, Alberta. Once in Banff look for signs directing you to the Banff Springs Golf Course along the Bow River. Park your car at the view point by the Bow Falls parking lot near the Banff Springs Hotel. This is the trailhead area for The Professor Falls and other climbs in the area, including all of the climbs on Mt. Rundle's Trophy Wall. Walk across the Goat Creek Bridge and follow the golf course road for 3 km to a fork in the road, and take the right fork. This is the old parking area. Follow the right hand fork for another 1.5 km, to a hiking trail which branches off to the right. This is the original parking area.

Follow this trail through the forest and along the Bow River to your left, as you watch the mountain through the trees on your right for glimpses of world-class test pieces such as Sea of Vapours, The Replicant and The Terminator, all located on Mt. Rundle's famed Trophy Wall.

You will reach a right turn in the trail at a clearing to your right. Turn here, look up and you will see the obvious blue columns and steps of The Professor Falls directly in front of you about four hundred yards away, at the top of a wide talus drainage. At this point, you will have been hiking for about one hour since leaving the trailhead. As this is one of the most popular moderate climbing areas and ice routes in Banff National Park, you will in all likelihood be following a well-broken trail all of the way from the trailhead.

The Professor Falls - Route Description

This 300 m route is found in a narrow gully below and to the left of the much harder routes on the Trophy Wall. There are bolted chain and cable anchors set at every one of the first three belay stations, which are wide, roomy, frozen pools that allow ease of belaying, setting up rappels or just resting. These pitches are fairly long, stepped and often wet, no matter how cold it is. The first three pitches are very steep, around WI 4, becoming a little easier for the fourth pitch. The fifth is the crux and consists of 80 to 90 degree ice.

Walking down from any of the first three pitches is possible, and hiking up and around the first three pitches is also possible. Several shorter steps , followed by about 300 feet of snow climbing will lead you to the final crux pitch, a full 40 m flow of up to 90 degree vertical. This final pitch can be very wet, thin and hollow in places and is the most technical pitch of the entire route. This pitch cannot be seen from the top of the fourth pitch because it is about a five minute walk higher up the gully containing the whole route.

As this is such a popular route, you will need to be there very early as other parties will begin showing up with the sunrise. Waiting and having to deal with falling ice, equipment and debris are a definite possibility if you start too late.

To descend, most parties rappel the route. Bear in mind that ropes will likely be covered in a thick layer of slush, so extra caution must be taken and remember to watch out for the inevitable slower parties still making their way up below you. However, there are other options for descent if you do not wish to rappel the main route itself. From the top of the final pitch, head off to the left and climb down through trees on steep ground, taking care to avoid any rock slabs, which will be steep and hazardous. You can traverse back to the gully below the final top pitch and downclimb the steps to the top of the third pitch. Rappells from this point are possible to the left of the gully as well, but anchor points are intermittently spaced and trees are not solid as a result of the steep grade, so rappelling the route itself is your best option. To do so you may need to let a party below you pass before beginning.


http://www.summitpost.org/route/175773/the-professor-falls-iii-wi-4.html

Access
Drive down the main street in Banff, go over the river bridge and take your left (east, as for the Banff Springs Hotel). Soon you'll come to a left turnoff and sign for "Bow Falls", a popular tourist spot in summer. Drive along this road for a few hundred meters and you'll come to a road barrier and a parking lot. Take out your bike, go through the barrier and bike along this road (always packed down from parks vehicles' tracks). Just past a clearing, the road through the golf course forks - take a right on the smaller road (if you go left, you'll reach a wastewater treatment plant, and you've gone too far!). You will eventually reach a spot where a trail turns off to your right after approximately 3-4km, where there's a large sign and map. Follow this singletrack trail for another 3km along the Bow River. You will get to a drainage with the lower part of the climb visible on your right. Stash your bikes and walk a couple of hundred meters up to the base.

The first three pitches are WI4 and have bolted anchors. The first one is short and has a bolted anchor immediately on the left.

The second pitch is wide, and after the steep part is done there is a bolted belay on the left. With 60 meter ropes, keep climbing further up a WI 3 step and flat ground to fully stretch the rope out to a bolted anchor on the left.

The third pitch has a large rock on the left, where the easiest line usually lies - a neat feature, you can almost rest your back while 'squeezed' underneath if you take such a line. Two new rappel bolts exist (2007) on a rock straight ahead - look for them.

A short walk (trail your ropes) takes you to the fourth pitch (WI 3). Climb a short step, then walk to a wide curtain of ice. Climb the right side to a cave half-way, where there is a bolted belay.

The fifth pitch (WI 3) climbs the rest of the curtain and then another short ice step to a bolted belay on the left (the bolts are quite high on the rock and can be difficult to reach).

From there, a 200-300 meter snow slope leads to the base of the last pitch (usually crux). This pitch is about 40 meters in length, and usually sports ice in excess of 85 degree steepness. Its difficulty can vary, but it tends to have bad ice with less than perfect protection possibilities. If you are confident on WI 4 it should not be a huge challenge, but this pitch still seems to turn back a lot of people. There are no bolts at the top, but there is a fixed threaded anchor through the rock with rappel rings.

From the top, most people rappel the route. You may want to solo up easy ice on a gully on the left (flat, and a couple of WI2 steps) to get a good look of the area. On your right, on the upper face of Mt Rundle, are three hard Canadian climbs - The Terminator (WI 5+/6+), The Replicant (WI 5/6+) and Sea of Vapours (WI 5/7). We watched a party of two make progress up the third pitch of Sea of Vapours, and it was quite entertaining. There is a beautiful view of the Bow Valley in the other direction.

When you get enough, rappel the route. There are bolted anchors the whole way, but they can be tricky to find. As an alternative, you can descend steep ground through the trees on the left, but a number of short rappels off trees are required according to the guidebook.

List of Summits

Mount Olympus
Mount Kilimanjaro
Billy Budd
Claggert
Moby Dick
Kota Kinabalu
Ha Ling Peak
Lady McDonald
East End of Rundle
Wasootch Ridge


Peaks to conquer this summer:

WATERTON
2348m difficult - Mount Galwey
2378m moderate - Mount Crandell
2440m easy - Bertha Peak
2630m easy - Mount Carthew
2409m difficult - Buchanan Peak
2692m easy - Mount Alderson
2910m moderate - Mount Blakiston
2683m moderate - Hawkins Horshoe
2730m easy - Mount Lineham
2600m moderate - Akamina Ridge

CROWSNEST PASS
2204m easy - Turtle mountain
2547m moderate - Mount Tecumseh
2410 moderate - Sentry Mountain
2785m moderate - Crowsnest Mountain
2530m easy - Mount Ward
2576m easy - Window Mountain
2645m difficult - Allison Peak

CANMORE and BOW VALLEY
2135m moderate - Heart Mountain
2240m easy - Mount Yamnuska
2702m moderate - Mount Fable
2440m moderate - Traverse to Gap Peak
2706m easy - Grotto Mountain
2769 easy - Middle Sister
2500m moderate - Squaw's Tit
2936m moderate - Big Sister
2685m moderate - Mount Lawrence Grassi
2680m moderate - Rimwall Summit
2192m moderate - Mount Baldy

SMITH-DORRIEN AREA
Near Spray Lakes

2975m moderate - Mount Nestor
3121m easy - Mount Sparrowhawk
2805m moderate - Mount Buller
2970m difficult - Mount Engadine
3117m moderate - The Tower
3185m difficult - Mount Galatea
3000m easy - The Fortress
3054m moderate - Mount Chester
3000m easy - Gusty Peak
2786m moderate - Mount Shark
2630m difficult - The Fist
2938m difficult - Mount Smuts
2775m moderate - Commonwealth Peak
3023m moderate - Mount Murray
2760m difficult - Mount Burstall

ELBOW / KANANASKIS VALLEY
2728m moderate - Mount Fullerton
2688m moderate - Mount Remus
2832m moderate - Mount Romulus
2935m moderate - Mount Glasgow
2934m easy - Banded Peak
2863m moderate - Cougar Mountain
2530m moderate - Nahahi Ridge Traverse
2500m difficult - Compression Ridge
2665m difficult - The Wedge
2575m moderate - Opal Ridge
2895m easy - Mount Kidd South Peak
2958m moderate - Mount Kidd
3053m difficult - Fisher Peak
3144m moderate - Mount Bogart
2795m moderate - Mount Lawson
2500m easy - Grizzly Peak
2675m moderate - Gap Mountain
3000m moderate - Tombstone South
2903m moderate - Mount Hood

KANANASKIS LAKES AREA
2850m difficult - Mount Warspite
2670m difficult - Mount Indefatigable
3003m difficult - Mount Northover
3174m easy - Mount Sarrail
2973m easy - Warrior Mountain
3021m easy - Mount Cordonnier
2973m difficult - Mount Fox

THE HIGHWOOD
2874m moderate - Mount Tyrwhitt
2934m moderate - Mount Pocaterra
3092m moderate - Storm Mountain
2867m difficult - Mount Storelk
3218m moderate - Mount Rae
2912m difficult - Mount Arethusa
3140m moderate - Mist Mountain

BANFF AREA
2964m moderate - Mount Inglismaldie
3163m moderate - Mount Aylmer
2998m moderate - Cascade Mountain
2949m easy - Mount Rundle
2522m difficult - Mount Norquay
2554m moderate - Mount Edith
2802m easy - Mount Cory
2930m easy - Mount Bourgeau
2935m difficult - Pilot Mountain
2984m difficult - Copper Mountain
2766m easy - Castle Mountain
2850m moderate - Stuart Knob
2862m easy - Helena Ridge
2970m easy - Television Peak
2845m moderate - Mount Whymper
3161m moderate - Storm Mountain
3311m moderate - Mount Ball
3155m difficult - Stanley Peak
2622m moderate - Vermillion Peak
2938m difficult - Isabelle Peak

LAKE LOUISE AREA
2910m moderate - Mount Bell
2976m moderate - Mount Niblock
2983m difficult - Mount Whyte
2779m moderate - Sheol Mountain
3543m moderate - Mount Temple
2649m easy - Mount St. Piran
2744m easy - Mount Fairview
2800m easy - Panorama Rdige
2360m easy - Tower of Babel
3084m moderate - Eiffel Peak

SKOKI AREA
3059m moderate - Ptarmigan Peak
3086m moderate - Mount Richardson
3033m diffcult - Pika Peak
2697m easy - Skoki Mountain
2946m easy - Fossil Mountain
2777m moderate - Oyster Peak
2902m diffcult - Mount Redoubt
2650m easy - Brachiopod Mountain
2695m easy - Anthozoan Mountain

FIELD AND LITTLE YOHO VALLEY
2599m easy - Mount Burgess
2778m difficult - Wapta Mountain
2635m easy - Mount Field
2771m difficult - Mount Bosworth
2560m easy - Paget Peak
2974m moderate - Narao Peak
2847m moderate - Mount Yukness
3199m difficult - Mount Stephen
2972m moderate - Mount Niles
3152m difficult - Mount Daly
2845m moderate - Isolated Peak
2863m easy - Mount Kerr
2902m difficult - Kiwetinok Peak
2816m easy - Mount Pollinger
3015m difficult - Mount McArthur
3040m difficult - Mount Carnarvon

ICEFIELDS PARKWAY
3125m moderate - Little Hector
2996m moderate - Mount Andromache
2998m difficult - Dolomite Peak
2993m easy - Cirque Peak
3174m easy - Observation Peak
3080m moderate - Mount Weed
3307m difficult - Mount Chephren
3155m difficult - Mount Sarbach
3135m difficult - Mount Coleman
3211m moderate - Nigel Peak
2884m moderate - Mount Wilcox
3000m easy - Tangle Ridge
3315m easy - Sunwapta Peak

JASPER
2720m easy - Indian Ridge
2763m easy - Pyramid Mountain
2553 difficult - Hawk Mountain
2260m easy - Cinquefoil Mountain
2316 moderate - Roche Miette
2564m difficult - Utopia Mountain
2135m moderate - Roche a Perdix

Need to check out Weeping Wall (halfway between Banff and Jasper):
52.1425,-116.995833

Finger rehabilitation for Climbing

Found this on Cilmbinginjuries.com
http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers

(1) Go buy some TheraPutty! All orthopedic doctors and physical therapists will recommend putty as a tool for successful recovery. ---> found out they sell this at
KENRON PHARMACY
100-1620 29 Street Northwest
Calgary, AB T2N 4L7
OR
Life Mark (they sell 9.95 for Exercise Putty for 2 oz.)
(403) 289-7224
(2) The fingers generally receive poor blood flow so getting blood to the injured area is important. Contrast baths have had mixed results in the literature, but it wouldn't hurt to try. To do a contrast bath, get a bowl of warm water, and cold water. Put injured finger in cold water for a few minutes, then place it immediately in the warm water for a few minutes. Repeat 3-5 times. Finish with the cold water. This could be done after squeezing the putty ball to "flush out" the injured joint. Massaging the effected area can be effective as well. Start out lightly and gradually increase the pressure.
--> Tried the cold and hot water switching technique for about 30 min. Kind of helped. I'll try it 3 times a day for a week and see if it makes a difference. I guess that also means i have to stop climbing for a bit. but that won't likely happen.

Family Day - Heart Creek Hike

We ended up waking up a little later than we'd have liked but actually got up and decided to do a short hike through Heart Creek and check out the rock climbing routes and ice climbing routes to see what the area looked like. I came to this area with the Alpine Club in the summer of 2009. After packing the correct layers for the day we finally got out of the condo at around 1:00 pm and then headed off to the store to pick up Rogue; since we were bringing Barkley as well we thought it would be a great opportunity to take Rogue on her first hike. So we finally got the area around 2:30 pm and then hiked to the end of the trail. We checked out about 3 different walls in the area and then found the ice climbing waterfall near the end of the trail.

Claudia ended up losing her neck warmer but a couple of Europeans found them on our way back. I can't believe i even remembered to ask them if they found it or not. On our way back we Mikyung ended up inviting us over to Jamie's place to eat dinner since we needed to drop Rogue off anyways. Saw Shin for the first time in years, but was in a very awkward situation to talk since it was a huge family gathering and i knew there was already tension going on with Migs and her. For dinner it was home made cabbage rolls, with turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy and steamed peas and carrots. Tried the lipton's green tea in a can which was interesting then the delicious strawberry jello and whip cream dessert. Jamie showed me his Brodie down hill bike which was insanely heavy in the front. When we got home we were exhausted and then watched a bit of Gomorrah (an independent film by Martin Scorcese) about the mafia and what its actually like in Italy. It won a bunch of independent film awards and the reviews were very good for the movie so decided to take it out from the CPL. Have to catch up on watching all of the movies i've taken out recently. Also since i cancelled the TLM gym membership last week, have been thinking weather to join the WHC again or the YMCA gym on the south side.

Ice Climbing in Grotto Canyon

The night before Feb 14th, I made sure this time my harness was packed and also attached some climbing gear; 4 draws, 3 ice screws (2x22; 1x19), 1 cordellette, 1 prussik, 4 lockers.

Checked the weather forecast for Nakiska(since i thought we were heading to King's Creek) and Canmore just to get an average for the area. Glad I checked out Canmore because we ended up going to Grotto instead. Simon, during the week had sent me an email for a request that I drive my truck this week so I was ready to drive and tried to make sure I slept a little earlier for the next day. Since the weather was supposed to be pretty warm (above 0 deg C), I didn't really pack that many layers. I purchased the First Ascent 850 down fill made by Eddie Bauer since it was 30% off and has a life time warranty. The advertising brochure for the First Ascent line in great as they tested all the gear on Everest and the down jacket goes up to 26,000 ft. Since i doubt i'll ever bring the jacket up to that height i figured it should do the job. Its also machine washable which means its a waterproof down jacket implying that is a harderproof shell around the down. I refunded the Reflex jacket at MEC since it was actually 800 fill down and not waterproof. Even the color was way nicer i figured the EB jacket was much better in the long run. $278 for the reflex vs. 255 for the EB; no brainer. So anyways, I left EB jacket at home since i doubted i would need it.

I used the double plastic scarpas instead this week instead of the Phantom 8000s since i also wanted to try to see how they would do for ice climbing. I've only used them for mountaineering and at Aconcagua and the wear and tear on them are really starting to show. Hannah's birthday was also the night before so we had to jet early but I didn't end up having to stop by the 24 hour Subway in downtown after we dropped off Jayde because Hannah was nice enough to let me pack some leftover from the bibimbap meal.

Arrived at the parking area in Valley Ridge around 7 AM and everyone was there already and Neil yelled out that i was driving so I let everyone know it was goign to be around 10 bucks each if we went to Canmore doubled back to King's Creek and then came home, since when i looked up on the web its about 40 km on highway 40 and back again to King's Creek so altogether it would be about 150 km which is about a half a tank of gas. Everyone was cool with that although SImon gave me 7 bucks after i mentioned that which wasn't cool; but he did say let him know if it was too little.

This week was similar to last week as the air was very foggy on the way out, and again it cleared up at Scott Lake Hill. I filled up at Petro-Canada right passed Cochrane with Premium this time. We got to Canmore around 8:10 am after missing a turn to the right towards the coffee shop. When we arrived, Tim, Caitlin and Nathan were already there (the last two had spent a night in Canmore so they were literally staying across the street). Tim decided we were headed to Grotto Canyon and to follow him east and passed the entrance to canmore that we came in (over the bridge). We headed onto the 1A and then when we came to the parking lot (which was east of the power plant), we went towards a different section of Grotto Canyon (happened to be the same direction we went with the Alpine club). After trekking for about 1.5 hours there and back we realized we came to the incorrect area. Neil, since he wasn't much of a scrambler was stressed, upset and frustrated at the guide for leading us over dangerous terrain. We ended up rapping down the area that looked like an old water fall and then headed back to the parking area and towards the plant in the opposite direciton. When he arrived at a frozen creek we placed our crampons on and then walked upstream of the creek. There were 3000 yr old pictographs we could see on the sides of the canyon along with 5.10 to 5.13 bolted sport routes all along the canyon. Nathan and Caitlin had been here before and mentioned that most of the creek was dried up in the summer so your rope doesn't necessarily get all wet when trying to climb this area. We all found out Caitlin was an Archeology major and mentioned that one of the pictographs were supposed to be warriors and then a the drawing of a tomb on its side was a carcass. When the water is not frozen over the land is about 5 feet below so the pictographs wouldn've been overhead if we were there during the summer. Although the terrain would've been difficult to ascertain given that the change in physical geographic structures are impossible to know with absolute certainty.

We hiked up about a km more along the ice; some parts were melted through about 3 inches and were already starting to form puddles as the weather was about 3 to 5 C. When we arrived to the location of a couple of mixed climbing routes; a route called Him and Hers, Tim set up 3 top ropes and we ended up climbing those 3 for most of the day. Since we arrived later than we otherwise should have we tried to spend more time climbing then eating. This resulted in me being really fatigued by the time we got home.

Celebrated with Claudia when we got home. She was sweet to buy all the groceries during the day especially after her 16 km run that morning with her running partner in Edworthy. She stopped by the Sunterra market on her way home and picked up some fresh wild salmon, French white wine called Gerard Bertrand 2006 from the South of France, pesto, mixed lettuce, some fresh grape tomatoes and mushrooms. We ended up cooking dinner on V day since its so stupidly crowded at restaurants that day.